Carolina Broncos

here is a copy of the article I wrote for bronco driver, I no longer have it as I sent it so this is a scan of what was published.
The only thing I forgot to mention is the choice in master cyl. Its for a 1978 lincon mark 5.
This the text portion of the article.

IN THE SHOPpg;lgliQ:l
DIY Rear Disk Brakes
BY MATIHEW MINER. NORTH CAROLINA
Lets face it, drum brakes are just too ineffective
for stopping a big tire'd 4wd, especially
if, like me, you have beefed up the
motor quite a bit. However, with only a few
kits available rear discs are not always in
the budget. There is a solution to the more
expensive bolt on kits, but there is one
requirement; If you plan to drive the truck
on the street be sure to have a qualified
welder do the finial welding. I cannot
express this enough, it may be your life or
the life of those who drive around you that
you save by having some one do this step
correctly.
it real easy to find the new ones.
Drive the new studs into the holes in
the rotor NOT the axle. Now install the
rotor from in behind the axle flange, not on
the outside of the axle flange (the knurled
part on the stud is longer than the rotor is
thick so they will stay together). Now reinstall
the axle back into the housing. This
step can be a little harder if your staying
with your stock axles. The stock axle bearing
retaining plate is meant to mount over
the backing plate. You will need to cut a
square piece off the backing plate (roughly
the same size as the retaining plate). Install
the cut portion on the
shaft last so the bearing
plate will mount threw it
Rotors (1977 Jee_p CJ7l
Dnvar sid.!!, port No.: 'C242'
FENCO RfMAN
$6"3>00 ($~1 .99 aue)
too the axle. This maintains
a proper preload on
the axle bearings.
Caliper Brpcket (GM)
A&A Mon,ufu.ctvring
WitW.oo:mfu.{cim
Item# AA~T13A
S8.66
filS GM metric sMe coli~e1
filS â¬1\Wf SlO Bliuer 4~4)
S.,l/i1' Between hql~centBrs
POSSl!nllet gde poit No.: C243
F'I(CO RrMAN ..
$63.00 ($61 .~.9 cor6)
3You should now have
an axle with just
rotors mounted to the
inside of the shafts. Now
you need to run new
caliper hoses. I recommend
upgrading to braided
stainless steel hose,
however stock rubber
hoses can be used (use
the same application as
the caliper donor car).
You can either drop long
hoses down from the
frame on each side or run
Caliper$ {1992 Chevy S 10 pickup)
Dn'vel sid~ port No.: CJ34
01 Rart No::'S109
DURAWT
FENCO ~EMAN $19 .9f(no W!e Clibrg~)
S13.-99 ($I lOb' core)
PbSSengMoside porl No.: Cl.36
FE NCO :RfMAH
$13.99 ($,11.00 core)
Brake Caliper Balt/PIJI
Por~ .No.: front ~~004
BRAKEWARE
$7.99 eoch
or for on E-broke setup 85 Eldorado Semi-metallic ~cis
Pan No.: MK~J S~
DURAWT
$2.0.9J} new steel lines from the
stock point on the axle
and then use rubber to the
1 First you need to strip the rear axle
down, including pulling the axle shafts
out of the housing. Grind the paint/rust/dirt
off the end of the axle tube so you will have
a clean welding surface. This is a good time
too put on new axle bearings or upgrade to
better shafts. In my case I chose to upgrade
to new Dutchman 31 spline axles. These
come with a slide in axle bearing retaining
plate which will make the reassembly easier.
2With the backing plates removed from
the axle you will have a shaft with just
the bearing retaining plate on it.
The lug studs will need to be removed.
A trip to the parts store and ask for the same
size stud but with a larger portion of
threads. Bring an old one with you, it makes
caliper. I chose to add a longer braided hose
at the center (stock mounting point) and
new steel line out to each side. From there I
used braided lines with banjo fittings to go
to the calipers.
4With all the new hose run you can now
install the pads in the calipers, attach the
brake hose. Depending on were you plan to
mount the caliper you may need to bleed
the system, use a block of wood stuffed
between the pads and bleed the lines. Slide
the caliper on the rotor, then mount the
caliper to the weld on bracket.
Dry fit the caliper to see what clears
the best (do not weld anything yet), be sure
to have the bleeders facing up. Even if you
have to put the left caliper on the right side
to do so.
The stock shaft alter removal, the studs will need removing,
and the drum bucking plate should be cut the some
size os the retaining plate. Now is o good time to put in
new bearings.
If you pump and hold the pedal with a
stick (prybars work great for this, If your
helpers are in the house). The caliper will
be centered on the rotor, the bracket should
IN THE SHOP
be on the axle
tube. Tack weld
the caliper on, try
to be sure its solidly
tacked.
SNow take it all
back apart
again, the axle
bearing and caliper
should not be
mounted while finish
welding is
being done, this
could damage the
seals. Run small
welds as not to distort
the tube or the
bracket, however
you do not want to
use too little heat
or wire speed as
this could cause
weak, shallow
welds. Be sure to
treat the welds
with a rust preventive
and then paint.
Reassemble, bleed
the calipers again.
6Ifyou want
disk brakes but
you also want an
emergency brake
you are in luck, the
late 70's to early
80's Cadys had
rear calipers that
are the same size
as the SlO calipers.
However, take the
e-brake cables into
account when
mounting the
calipers/brackets.
The cables will
need to be run forward.
I used a universal
cable and
tied it into the stock pedal assembly. I have since removed the caddy
caliper as their e-brake holding capabilities can be somewhat less
than they need to be. The Cady caliper e-brake mechanism can also
be a pain to get adjusted properly and stay adjusted. (I only used
one since I used to run a spool). I prefer to use Lever Lok's with the
S 10 calipers. A
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Is In our Product
Service Is In our Reputation
Superior Parts & Custom
Features= Strongest
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Drive Shaft ~Q;o
~,cJ
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-

I can also share tear down pics if that will help anyone.

Awesome article Matt. WE are going to do this sometime this summer. I want brakes for the November run!!!

I know a raw OCR scan when I see one; way to go slacker. Let me help you out...

Lets face it, drum brakes are just too ineffective for stopping a big tire'd 4wd, especially if, like me, you have beefed up the motor quite a bit. However, with only a few kits available rear discs are not always in the budget. There is a solution to the more expensive bolt on kits, but there is one requirement; If you plan to drive the truck on the street be sure to have a qualified welder do the final welding. I cannot express this enough, it may be your life or the life of those who drive around you that you save by having some one do this step correctly.

First you need to strip the rear axle down, including pulling the axle shafts out of the housing. Grind the paint/rust/dirt off the end of the axle tube so you will have a clean welding surface. This is a good time too put on new axle bearings or upgrade to better shafts. In my case I chose to upgrade to new Dutchman 31 spline axles. These come with a slide in axle bearing retaining plate which will make the reassembly easier.

With the backing plates removed from the axle you will have a shaft with just the bearing retaining plate on it. The lug studs will need to be removed. A trip to the parts store and ask for the same size stud but with a larger portion of threads. Bring an old one with you, it makes it real easy to find the new ones. Drive the new studs into the holes in the rotor NOT the axle. Now install the rotor from in behind the axle flange, not on the outside of the axle flange (the knurled part on the stud is longer than the rotor is thick so they will stay together). Now reinstall the axle back into the housing. This step can be a little harder if your staying with your stock axles. The stock axle bearing retaining plate is meant to mount over the backing plate. You will need to cut a square piece off the backing plate (roughly the same size as the retaining plate). Install the cut portion on the shaft last so the bearing plate will mount through it to the axle. This maintains a proper preload on the axle bearings fits GM mehanic.

You should now have an axle with just rotors mounted to the inside of the shafts. Now you need to run new caliper hoses. I recommend upgrading to braided stainless steel hose, however stock rubber hoses can be used (use the same application as the caliper donor car). You can either drop long hoses down from the frame on each side or run new steel lines from the stock point on the axle and then use rubber to the caliper. I chose to add a longer braided hose at the center (stock mounting point) and new steel line out to each side. From there I used braided lines with banjo fittings to go to the calipers.

With all the new hose run you can now install the pads in the calipers, attach the brake hose. Depending on were you plan to mount the caliper you may need to bleed the system, use a block of wood stuffed between the pads and bleed the lines. Slide the caliper on the rotor, then mount the caliper to the weld on bracket. Dry fit the caliper to see what clears the best (do not weld anything yet), be sure to have the bleeders facing up. Even if you have to put the left caliper on the right side to do so. If you pump and hold the pedal with a stick (pry bars work great for this, If your helpers are in the house). The caliper will be centered on the rotor, the bracket should be on the axle tube. Tack weld the caliper on, try to be sure its solidly tacked.

Now take it all back apart again, the axle bearing and caliper should not be mounted while finish welding is being done, this could damage the seals. Run small welds as not to distort the tube or the bracket, however you do not want to use too little heat or wire speed as this could cause weak, shallow welds. Be sure to treat the welds with a rust preventive and then paint. Reassemble, bleed the calipers again.

If you want disk brakes but you also want an emergency brake you are in luck, the late 70's to early 80's Cadys had rear calipers that are the same size as the S10 calipers. However, take the e-brake cables into account when mounting the calipers/brackets. The cables will need to be run forward. I used a universal cable and tied it into the stock pedal assembly. I have since removed the caddy caliper as their e-brake holding capabilities can be somewhat less than they need to be. The Cady caliper e-brake mechanism can also be a pain to get adjusted properly and stay adjusted. (I only used one since I used to run a spool). I prefer to use Lever Lok's with the S10 calipers.

I'm curious as to why the original article listed 1977 CJ7 rotor part numbers for the driver and passenger side separately and then there is an alternative AutoZone part number that seems to cover both sides under the same part number? What is/was the difference between the rotors on driver and passenger side?

Not sure why I did that. They are both the same. The calipers are of course different per side. The caliper brackets are not different either.

Found this after researching several options. I like that it is welded on. For the e-brake option, do the Caddy e-brakes really suck? Also, what is a "lever lok"?

lever lock is a mechanical device that locks the hydraulic fluid to the callipers. unlike a "line-lock" use on drag cars etc...that is an elec solenoid that can fail. as for caddy ebrakes...i think properly setting them up plays a huge roll in it.im on the fence with caddy, havent decided yet

The ebrakes with the caddy calipers are poor. Aren't you running an auto trans? Throw it in park and forget about it. That's my motto..

Is there any other options beside the caddy brakes

broncomatt

broncomatt

chuzie

chuzie

chuzie

broncomatt

jdowns67

blazinchuck

broncosbybart

snipes243