Carolina Broncos

I'm moving on to my next phase of my project. I picked up both axles out of storage this past weekend. They haven't seen sunlight or rain in two years until this morning. My front axles thanked me by spewing axle oil all over the back of my truck and onto my beautiful driveway.

Anyways I would like to move the rear axle back 1". The factory perches are small as we all know. I've been looking hard at the various perches that RuffStuff has to offer. I could do it the simple way and replace the old perches with bigger perches that would allow me the 1" I want. But I'm turned on by their U Bolt'less Perch Kits! I don't want to go beyond 2" bc I feel it adds stress to the welds as it hangs forward instead of on center of the axle. So that kinda rules out their 2+ Perch Kit as you can move it back 3". So that leaves me with their U-Bolt Eliminator Perch Kit. Not much in the description but I think it will allow me to move it back 1", but not 2".

Trying to get interest back on this website. I do post a good bit on CB's website but my roots are on here. So hopefully I will get all kinds of ideas from Grand Poohbahs and Gurus this website desperately misses!

I would go with the standard U bolt type because:

- If the threads seize (as they often do) you can easily cut the U bolts if they have to be removed. The plate design, not so easy.

- It looks like the perches sit higher on the bolt type, possibly adding more height (lift) to the rear of the truck. The U bolt style stacks higher than the stock perches, but appears to be lower than the bolted style.

- That offset design appears to be very poorly thought out as the bolts are directly in line with the top of the axle tube. Bolt length would be critical.

- You will want to get the larger U bolt plate with the 3 holes if going with the perches in the 1st pic. That is the route I'd go.


A 1" stretch is probably about all you could do without getting into the gas tank/rear crossmember.

I bought WH Extreme HD U-Bolt kit last year. I should be able to drill a 1/2" or 5/8" hole if need be if I want to go back 1". I think I may just go the cheap and simplest route and buy those regular perches.

I found another option.
http://diy4x.com/product.php?productid=1...250&page=1

They add lift to your ride height. If it will be ok as is, I'd just use the perches and modify the WH spring plates.

Oh, and if you do put new perches on it you can eliminate the shims on the leaf springs and just change the angle of the perch. That's the best way to do it but you'll need to install the drivetrain to check the driveshaft and pinion angle first.

Won't have a drivetrain no time soon. Heck I'm spooked about cutting off old perches and putting on new ones. May be I need to fab up a jig so that I can put the new perches in the same spot as the old perches. I've seen some people use a degree finder thingy. They would zero it at first, and then clock axle 4-6 degrees. I already have installed new WH 6 degree shims to the springs I just refurbished.

Yeah, I recall that. I'd remove the shims and just change the perch angle. You can remove one and tack a new one on at whatever degree you want. Angle finders are cheap and necessary. I wouldn't weld the perches fully until final mock up. You want the pinion a degree or 2 lower than the driveshaft angle. It isn't hard to do just takes time and attention.

i did the ORD zero rates.they are 1" blocks that bolt to leaf pack, and they allow .5",center, and 1.5" forward or backwards. think mine is maxed backwards

actually that DIY4x4 is selling the same thing.... guess its not .5"(1")

Thx Chuck, I believe that's the route I will go. One inch back is all I need. Xmas kicked my butt this year so I'm going to wait a bit before ordering them.

I finally broke down the hoghead from the housing today. Had some water in it so I'll need to do a good job cleaning it all out. Then I'll fab up a anti-wrap bracket on top of the housing then it's off to the powder coater.