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Build sheets - cdeal28078 - 11-05-2007
I know I need to search and on another site I would get hollared at for not. I ddi search on the other site and did not find what I needed.
I found both build sheets for my 86. One under the driver's seat and one under the back carpet. I would like to know how to read them. basically, what do the numbers mean?
I am thinking of replacing the D44 with a D50 I have when I replace the front suspension and I want to make sure that the stock 44 isn't a locking type diff.
What is the code for a locking front diff?
Clint
Build sheets - bucketobolts - 11-05-2007
Not sure about the build codes. You can always lock both hubs and turn one tire. If both front tires roll in the same direction, it has a locker or posi diff. If you rotate and the other tire rolls backward, or the drive shaft turns while the other tire stands still, you have an open diff.
Build sheets - cdeal28078 - 11-05-2007
Yes, I tried that. I was thinking that if the clutches were worn it would not show it. I figure it to be open.
I have a whole front end set up that I got with the Bronco plus a D50 center. My front end bushings are badly worn on the drivers side so I am thinking of just swapping out the whole set up since they are new on the extra set up.
That way I don't have to fight changing the bushings.
clint
Build sheets - bucketobolts - 11-05-2007
Sounds like a plan. Is the 50 geared the same?
Build sheets - Roughshod - 11-06-2007
A couple things here; one, no Ford ever came with a locker from the factory, the best they came with was a trac-loc limited slip. If you happen to already have a trac-loc and money is a huge issue, go ahead and replace the clutch pack and use it. Truth be told though, they're not a very good limited slip. If you want a limited slip you'd be much better off buying an Eaton. Even better, and less money, buy a locker for the front. I've been running an Aussie locker up front in my D44 TTB for years and it has held up really well, even stood up to broken axle shafts.
The other thing, and much more important really, is that the D50 TTB will NOT bolt up in place of the D44 TTB. If you take a good look at the D50 arms you'll see that they're shorter than the D44 arms, meaning that it is definitely not a bolt on deal. Every time I've seen this discussed it has pretty much came down to a consensus that swapping in a solid D60 is cheaper and easier, believe it or not.
That's not to say that the D50 is completely useless. The only thing that you can use out of the D50 TTB is the stub shaft, and that's actually a really good upgrade for the D44 TTB. The stub shaft is the weakest link in the D44 TTB, and it sucks because it's retained into the diff by a c-clip. Replacing it with the D50 stub shaft removes that weak link, making the next weak link the locking hubs. That is a very good thing, because you can replace a busted hub in fifteen minutes on the trail. Here's a comparison pic between the puny D44 shaft comapred to the beefy D50 shaft.
![[Image: dscn1844.jpg]](http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/197942/fullsize/dscn1844.jpg)
See? There is a HUGE difference. I've broken hubs, broken axle shafts, but never that stub shaft. If you want some more pics from the swap check out this link to my Supermotors page.
http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/7660/24839
Build sheets - cdeal28078 - 11-06-2007
I didn't explain what I have very well. The extra ttb I have is a 44 unit from another Bronco. Ther D50 I have is only the center chunck/ I was under the empression I can use it in a d44 housing along with the d50 stub shaft.
The only reason I am thinking of swapping the 2 front ends is that the extra one supposed to have all new ball joints in it.
Mine are worn pretty badly.
The d50 is supposed to be a 3.50 or 3.55 same as what I have but I will check it.
clint
Build sheets - Roughshod - 11-06-2007
Sorry, I was confused. You're talking about swapping the D50 chunk onto a spare D44 TTB arm, and then swapping that arm onto your Bronco? It still won't work because the D50 chunk will not bolt straight onto the D44 TTB arm, it has a different bolt pattern. I also suspect that the larger D50 ring gear would hit the TTB arm, although I'm not 100% certain on that point. Your best bet is still going to be just removing the D50 stub shaft from the D50 chunk and installing it into the existing D44 chunk.
Build sheets - Ogeechee 4x4 - 11-06-2007
Roughshod Wrote:Sorry, I was confused. You're talking about swapping the D50 chunk onto a spare D44 TTB arm, and then swapping that arm onto your Bronco? It still won't work because the D50 chunk will not bolt straight onto the D44 TTB arm, it has a different bolt pattern. I also suspect that the larger D50 ring gear would hit the TTB arm, although I'm not 100% certain on that point. Your best bet is still going to be just removing the D50 stub shaft from the D50 chunk and installing it into the existing D44 chunk.
Really? I was under the impression that a D50 3rd member was the same as a D44 3rd?
Guess i learn something everyday... Not that i need to know how to regear a TTB anymore, but you get the point...
Build sheets - doc - 11-07-2007
I too, was under the impression that the 50 chunk would bolt-in....
I'll refund your purchase price Clint!
Build sheets - broncomatt - 11-07-2007
The trac-loc posi is weaker, when i was at ford there was a few older techs who rebuilt the core units for their own rides. One trick to upgrade them was to put washers behind the springs to increase the presser on the plates. Anther is to not ad the aditive, it only makes the clutches slip more. Less agressive for the avarage costomer.
Broncomatt