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what have you wrenched on your bronco(s) today?
I always heard the gas it gives off was poisonous. Is there any validity to that?

Sent from my GS3 on Cyanogenmod with the older / better version of Tapatalk!
'77 351w- Explorer EFI, 4R70W, 4-link, lockers, 4.56, 35" MT/Rs with a severe rock addiction.Confusedmokin:
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads.

[Image: sig2.jpg]
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Yes! Never Weld it unless it's ground off, even then grinding is bad...need a mask

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77 built 306,Trickflow Cam/Alum Heads/dome pistons/10:1comp,nv3550,duff long arms,3.5" lift,family cage,protofab rear bumper,twin sticked, and 35KM2'sG.D.I.
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This is a great read on the subject.

Will it make you feel like $hit, yes. Will it kill you, no.

http://www.sperkoengineering.com/html/ar...anized.pdf

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.pdf   WeldingGalvanized.pdf (Size: 28.69 KB / Downloads: 303)
'77 351w- Explorer EFI, 4R70W, 4-link, lockers, 4.56, 35" MT/Rs with a severe rock addiction.Confusedmokin:
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads.

[Image: sig2.jpg]
Reply
Yeah, galvanized can be done but it is no fun.

Ventilation is good. A mask is better.

I turned a wrench on the 67 today in the clockwise direction! Progress has been slow lately
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Broncitis Wrote:Drink a glass of milk it'll usually get rid of the metallic taste welding Galvanized steel leaves. If you clean the coating off good it welds like mild steel should.

Yep, downed two glasses down at dinner. I had fans on blowing away from me too. I found muratic axis is good at removing galvanized coating but it's a pain to use and sanding it off is almost impossible. the frame was hot-dipped so when sanding or light grinding all you are doing is moving it from one spot to another. Rough grinding does well but it leaves marks afterwards. Even removing it still burns up on the inside of frame. I've learned to hold my breath while making a pass the jump out of the way. Those fumes are not good to breath in.
I don't weld on galvanized metal as a profession, that's when the proper PPE, proper exhaust and expensive breathing equipment is necessary. Welding through painted surfaces isn't good either. Paints used by the military 20-40 yrs ago isn't good to sand or burn off. Lead and other bad stuff can be found in old paint.
[SIZE="2"]77 project bronco w/ 5.0 & c4, Sagi PS, 2 hard tops, eyebrow grill [/SIZE]
WANTED: auto column, gas tank, front/ rear seats
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Here are pics of the new shock mounts and where the old rubber bump-stop plate was.


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[SIZE="2"]77 project bronco w/ 5.0 & c4, Sagi PS, 2 hard tops, eyebrow grill [/SIZE]
WANTED: auto column, gas tank, front/ rear seats
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Got the right front axle pulled to replace U joint and pack bearings. Maintenance work trying to figure out how I am gonna hold that awkward thing and not munk up the needle bearing and operate the press also. Reckn I will wait til this evening when some help is available. Gonna do the front wheel cylinders while I am at it.
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Lots of grease to hold them in place. I always do one last check to make sure they are in place before i press. A clean mating surface helps too.

Sent from my GS3 on Cyanogenmod with the older / better version of Tapatalk!
'77 351w- Explorer EFI, 4R70W, 4-link, lockers, 4.56, 35" MT/Rs with a severe rock addiction.Confusedmokin:
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads.

[Image: sig2.jpg]
Reply
I know everyone says joints without zerks are stronger, but I need to disassemble mine to grease them again

Sent from my HTC6500LVW using Tapatalk 2
77 built 306,Trickflow Cam/Alum Heads/dome pistons/10:1comp,nv3550,duff long arms,3.5" lift,family cage,protofab rear bumper,twin sticked, and 35KM2'sG.D.I.
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Is there room to drill and tap a cap?

Sent from my GS3 on Cyanogenmod with the older / better version of Tapatalk!
'77 351w- Explorer EFI, 4R70W, 4-link, lockers, 4.56, 35" MT/Rs with a severe rock addiction.Confusedmokin:
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads.

[Image: sig2.jpg]
Reply


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