10-24-2007, 10:15 PM
(This post was last modified: 09-09-2012, 10:30 AM by broncomatt.)
This is my cheap disk setup written in bronco driver.
Cheap disk brake up grade, doesn't matter what bearing you have.
Caliper brackets from http://www.aa-mfg.com/
I used AA-113A
For small gm calipers, caddy and s10 pu.
I ran the caddy caliper on the left rear, since it was an ebrake caliper. With it connected to the stock ebrake pedal assembly by the stock cable to a universal cable to the caliper. Since I run a Detroit the rear is nearly always locked, if the left can turn the rest cant. I also use a lever loc from a tow truck, one front and one rear.
The right caliper is from an 87 s10 pu. Much cheaper.
The key to this modification is that you need to feel comfortable driving down the street on brakes that you welded to your truck. You must properly weld the caliper bracket to the housing.
For a rotor I used a Jeep cj7 front rotor 1978-79. This rotor can be fit over or behind the axle flange. If you put it behind the flange you will not need to cut down the outside edge of the axle flange to fit inside the rotor.
If its behind the flange you have to pull the axle to replace the rotor.
Either way you need longer lug studs, I simply brought a stock one down and dug threw the Napa help section until I found a longer one with the same spline. I have found the metal in the rotor to be soft and can allow the lug stud to spin(rotor behind the flange). So now I weld the studs to the rotor.
Strip the axle down, you will need to cut the brake backing plate. The same size as bearing retaining plate. The bearing cap needs the spacer plate to properly hold the bearing in.
Re assemble axle shaft into housing with rotor in or out.
Slid caliper over rotor with pads installed, bolt the caliper bracket to the caliper. With the bracket installed it be sitting on the axle tube. Use compressed air to move the caliper piston out holding the caliper to the rotor.
Now you can weld it in place. Once its tacked in place, its best to remove the caliper and rotor assembly. Heat is bad for those bearings.
I used braided brake hose to the axle housing, with one line up to the frame.
For a master cyl I used one for a Lincoln mark v. I think it to was 1978-79
No prop valve, strait to the calipers. For me it gives a little rear bite before the fronts. Just how I like it.
Paint and reassemble.
If you choose to mount the calipers at the 12 or 9 o'clock positions, bleed the caliper with a block of wood instead of the rotor.
As you can tell it has been a few years since this was done.
Broncomatt
Cheap disk brake up grade, doesn't matter what bearing you have.
Caliper brackets from http://www.aa-mfg.com/
I used AA-113A
For small gm calipers, caddy and s10 pu.
I ran the caddy caliper on the left rear, since it was an ebrake caliper. With it connected to the stock ebrake pedal assembly by the stock cable to a universal cable to the caliper. Since I run a Detroit the rear is nearly always locked, if the left can turn the rest cant. I also use a lever loc from a tow truck, one front and one rear.
The right caliper is from an 87 s10 pu. Much cheaper.
The key to this modification is that you need to feel comfortable driving down the street on brakes that you welded to your truck. You must properly weld the caliper bracket to the housing.
For a rotor I used a Jeep cj7 front rotor 1978-79. This rotor can be fit over or behind the axle flange. If you put it behind the flange you will not need to cut down the outside edge of the axle flange to fit inside the rotor.
If its behind the flange you have to pull the axle to replace the rotor.
Either way you need longer lug studs, I simply brought a stock one down and dug threw the Napa help section until I found a longer one with the same spline. I have found the metal in the rotor to be soft and can allow the lug stud to spin(rotor behind the flange). So now I weld the studs to the rotor.
Strip the axle down, you will need to cut the brake backing plate. The same size as bearing retaining plate. The bearing cap needs the spacer plate to properly hold the bearing in.
Re assemble axle shaft into housing with rotor in or out.
Slid caliper over rotor with pads installed, bolt the caliper bracket to the caliper. With the bracket installed it be sitting on the axle tube. Use compressed air to move the caliper piston out holding the caliper to the rotor.
Now you can weld it in place. Once its tacked in place, its best to remove the caliper and rotor assembly. Heat is bad for those bearings.
I used braided brake hose to the axle housing, with one line up to the frame.
For a master cyl I used one for a Lincoln mark v. I think it to was 1978-79
No prop valve, strait to the calipers. For me it gives a little rear bite before the fronts. Just how I like it.
Paint and reassemble.
If you choose to mount the calipers at the 12 or 9 o'clock positions, bleed the caliper with a block of wood instead of the rotor.
As you can tell it has been a few years since this was done.
Broncomatt
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]