01-08-2013, 04:05 PM
You will need to make cuts on the webbing and the rear boss to make room for the shifter bracket and allow the inner flag of the D20 to move fully forward.
This is a good point to start the controller installation along with the transmission end of the Lokar shifter.
My controller came with 5' of length which gave me the option of placing it pretty much anywhere in the cab. Some folks want to have it where they can read the display for temp, speed, gear selection, errors, etc. Since I intend to use my Autometer trans temp gauge inline at the cooler, I really don't have a need to have the controller in sight at all times. For me, it was between the Tuffy center console and the glove box. I chose the passenger wall of the glovebox so I could at least glance at the display when troubleshooting on the fly rather than looking down into the console. Also, the controller is not waterproof so the glove box is a much higher and safer place.
I used a 1-5/8" hole saw to get through the back of the glove box to route the cables directly to the passenger side hole in the upper corner of the firewall which in not in use for my configuration.
I used the mounting screw that holds the glove box to the frame on the passenger side to hold the controller. It seemed quite secure, so I didn't bother with the second mounting point on the controller.
All the harnesses were routed through the firewall except the vehicle harness which was left in the cab and plugged in to the RJM harness. Having this harness connect to the RJM harness is awesome since it eliminates the need for multiple splices.
I loomed the three exterior harnesses and routed them to the tunnel area. The four wires for the neutral safety switch and the backup lights needed to be spliced to the vehicle. I was a little disappointed that the harness does not come with the square connector native to the Bronco. I ended up cutting my connector off, leaving plenty of pigtail in case I ever needed it in the future, and soldering the four wires to my Bronco harness.
Looking at the Bronco connector, the Red/Blue wires are for the NSS. The male connector goes to IGN START and the female goes to STRT RELAY. The Black/Red wires are the backup lamps. The male connector goes to 12V IN RUN and the female to BKUP LAMP.
That is as far you will want to go with the controller until the transmission in installed and you can continue routing the cables.
Next you want to pull the pan and swap out the old filter. I cut open the old filter to make sure there was no debris to be concerned about; it looked good.
The Lokar shifter directions are pretty good although they do not mention the electrical connector. Before removing the NSS, I marked its position because I know the mounting holes are elongated which suggest it has some adjustment.
Here is the before pic...
The 21mm nut (not the size stated in the directions) holding the selector shaft in place was super tight. I used a 12mm wrench on the outer part of the shaft where the old linkage went to hold it in place. Pulled the roll pin and swapped out the old shaft for the new one.
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll176...040721.jpg
The new linkage will have to come off to slide on the NSS. Remove the bolt and not the three allen head screws.
The after pic...
This is a good point to start the controller installation along with the transmission end of the Lokar shifter.
My controller came with 5' of length which gave me the option of placing it pretty much anywhere in the cab. Some folks want to have it where they can read the display for temp, speed, gear selection, errors, etc. Since I intend to use my Autometer trans temp gauge inline at the cooler, I really don't have a need to have the controller in sight at all times. For me, it was between the Tuffy center console and the glove box. I chose the passenger wall of the glovebox so I could at least glance at the display when troubleshooting on the fly rather than looking down into the console. Also, the controller is not waterproof so the glove box is a much higher and safer place.
I used a 1-5/8" hole saw to get through the back of the glove box to route the cables directly to the passenger side hole in the upper corner of the firewall which in not in use for my configuration.
I used the mounting screw that holds the glove box to the frame on the passenger side to hold the controller. It seemed quite secure, so I didn't bother with the second mounting point on the controller.
All the harnesses were routed through the firewall except the vehicle harness which was left in the cab and plugged in to the RJM harness. Having this harness connect to the RJM harness is awesome since it eliminates the need for multiple splices.
I loomed the three exterior harnesses and routed them to the tunnel area. The four wires for the neutral safety switch and the backup lights needed to be spliced to the vehicle. I was a little disappointed that the harness does not come with the square connector native to the Bronco. I ended up cutting my connector off, leaving plenty of pigtail in case I ever needed it in the future, and soldering the four wires to my Bronco harness.
Looking at the Bronco connector, the Red/Blue wires are for the NSS. The male connector goes to IGN START and the female goes to STRT RELAY. The Black/Red wires are the backup lamps. The male connector goes to 12V IN RUN and the female to BKUP LAMP.
That is as far you will want to go with the controller until the transmission in installed and you can continue routing the cables.
Next you want to pull the pan and swap out the old filter. I cut open the old filter to make sure there was no debris to be concerned about; it looked good.
The Lokar shifter directions are pretty good although they do not mention the electrical connector. Before removing the NSS, I marked its position because I know the mounting holes are elongated which suggest it has some adjustment.
Here is the before pic...
The 21mm nut (not the size stated in the directions) holding the selector shaft in place was super tight. I used a 12mm wrench on the outer part of the shaft where the old linkage went to hold it in place. Pulled the roll pin and swapped out the old shaft for the new one.
http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll176...040721.jpg
The new linkage will have to come off to slide on the NSS. Remove the bolt and not the three allen head screws.
The after pic...
'77 351w- Explorer EFI, 4R70W, 4-link, lockers, 4.56, 35" MT/Rs with a severe rock addiction.mokin:
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads.
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads.