01-08-2013, 04:09 PM
Time to get it installed!
I consider the stock clocking position to be the middle clocking position since this brings the D20 shifter flags to an angle equal to the top of the bellhousing (level).
I don't have a transmission jack and, if I did, it wouldn't be much help with all my lift; nothing can get high enough. I just use a floor jack, 2 cargo straps and a cinder block.
I left the D20 off to keep things on the level and as light as possible.
The only clearance issues I had were with the bellhousing and the pan. The bellhousing had what looked like some sort of tab sticking out on the driver's side.; it was hitting my header.
I cut it off...
and bolted her on...
Please make sure BEFORE you tighten the bellhousing mounting bolts you ensure the torque converter studs are through the flexplate!
Here you can see how my passenger header collector is hitting the pan. I have a set of ceramic coated headers that drop down slightly more than this set and I hope they will clear the pan.
Next install the D20 gasket and the D20.
With the pans of the 4R70W and engine leveled axially, I had everything pretty well stuffed under the Bronco with plenty of clearance while not sacrificing to much D20 to differential angle.
This is the BC Bronco's ZF crossmember. As you can see, there is about a 3" gap between the crossmember and the bracket. There is a bit of offset even after adjusting the transmission bracket all the way to the passenger side. Either the transmission is cocked or the ZF crossmember is not welded in the correct position. I even thought I may have the crossmember backwards but that was not the case.
Ideally, I would like to re-weld the crossmember and add an extension piece to properly connect the two. Info on that is located here http://www.classicbroncos.com/forums...light=4R70W+ZF. In the mean time, this is my solution. It's not pretty, but it is functional.
Once Everything was bolted in I started on my driveshaft measurements. I took measurements for static, compressed, and extended.
My measurements, after taking them a million times, came to the following:
Rear Compressed: 31"
Rear Static: 31-15/16"
Rear Extended: 32.5"
Rear Max Travel: 1.5"
Front Compressed: 27-3/4"
Front Static: 28-7/8"
Front Extended: 29-3/4"
Front Max Travel: 2"
Not a as much movement as I expected and not sure how much the 4-link plays in to that equation.
In the end, I found the difference between my front and rear shaft lengths, 3-1/16", was much more than I had originally thought so my dream of having interchangeable driveshafts was over.
Lastly, I plugged in all my connections and fired up the computer.
I consider the stock clocking position to be the middle clocking position since this brings the D20 shifter flags to an angle equal to the top of the bellhousing (level).
I don't have a transmission jack and, if I did, it wouldn't be much help with all my lift; nothing can get high enough. I just use a floor jack, 2 cargo straps and a cinder block.
I left the D20 off to keep things on the level and as light as possible.
The only clearance issues I had were with the bellhousing and the pan. The bellhousing had what looked like some sort of tab sticking out on the driver's side.; it was hitting my header.
I cut it off...
and bolted her on...
Please make sure BEFORE you tighten the bellhousing mounting bolts you ensure the torque converter studs are through the flexplate!
Here you can see how my passenger header collector is hitting the pan. I have a set of ceramic coated headers that drop down slightly more than this set and I hope they will clear the pan.
Next install the D20 gasket and the D20.
With the pans of the 4R70W and engine leveled axially, I had everything pretty well stuffed under the Bronco with plenty of clearance while not sacrificing to much D20 to differential angle.
This is the BC Bronco's ZF crossmember. As you can see, there is about a 3" gap between the crossmember and the bracket. There is a bit of offset even after adjusting the transmission bracket all the way to the passenger side. Either the transmission is cocked or the ZF crossmember is not welded in the correct position. I even thought I may have the crossmember backwards but that was not the case.
Ideally, I would like to re-weld the crossmember and add an extension piece to properly connect the two. Info on that is located here http://www.classicbroncos.com/forums...light=4R70W+ZF. In the mean time, this is my solution. It's not pretty, but it is functional.
Once Everything was bolted in I started on my driveshaft measurements. I took measurements for static, compressed, and extended.
My measurements, after taking them a million times, came to the following:
Rear Compressed: 31"
Rear Static: 31-15/16"
Rear Extended: 32.5"
Rear Max Travel: 1.5"
Front Compressed: 27-3/4"
Front Static: 28-7/8"
Front Extended: 29-3/4"
Front Max Travel: 2"
Not a as much movement as I expected and not sure how much the 4-link plays in to that equation.
In the end, I found the difference between my front and rear shaft lengths, 3-1/16", was much more than I had originally thought so my dream of having interchangeable driveshafts was over.
Lastly, I plugged in all my connections and fired up the computer.
'77 351w- Explorer EFI, 4R70W, 4-link, lockers, 4.56, 35" MT/Rs with a severe rock addiction.mokin:
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads.
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads.