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73 Bronco
#41
I gotta side with Chuz on the consumables from HF. I usually get extended warranties on most power equipment bc they pretty much have a No-Questions-Asked policy. Go to HD or Lowes for those things unless you have a specialized machine shop supplier in ur area.

Can't beat their powered cutoff wheel/ grinder. Their 1/2" drill has been good, so has the hammer drill. I've had poor rating on their wrenches and screw drivers. I don't have a sears nearby anymore so I gotta make due the cheap way.
[SIZE="2"]77 project bronco w/ 5.0 & c4, Sagi PS, 2 hard tops, eyebrow grill [/SIZE]
WANTED: auto column, gas tank, front/ rear seats
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#42
Good to know how does tractor supply rate, not that I don't have a lowe's semi close but the tractor supply is like right up the road if I need something quick and don't wanna have to drive across town. There is a Sears in Hickory so not too bad when I go to games and such.

So if I am reading this right power tools are ok at HF but get the waranty.
Hand tools are like all cheap hand tools cheap.
Consumables such as drill bits and grinding wheels and what not are a total no go.
Let me know if I got that right.

Any particular brands you all would recomend for such things?
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#43
Correct. I've had success with dewalt discs
'77 351w- Explorer EFI, 4R70W, 4-link, lockers, 4.56, 35" MT/Rs with a severe rock addiction.Confusedmokin:
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads.

[Image: sig2.jpg]
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#44
Ok running is over it was a long day of running after things a lot of miles. But everything is home now and unloaded. Got the Rotisserie in the Garage trying to figure out if I can just put the body on it or if I will need the frame under the body when I put it on it. Will post pics hopefully tomorrow, since during the day time I don't have anything planned but trying to get the bed loose from the second chasis. Also picked up an engine hoist today, but not engine stand yet so won't be able to totally tear down the chasis till I can get that.

https://www.accessiblesystems.com/bul/4ke/4ke.php
Here is the link to the rotisserie I purchased.
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#45
I'm not aware of your experience so plz don't think i take you for a newbie, but be sure to brace the door openings before separating the frame from body. Some folks even go so far as to brace the bed, engine bay and tailgate area.
'77 351w- Explorer EFI, 4R70W, 4-link, lockers, 4.56, 35" MT/Rs with a severe rock addiction.Confusedmokin:
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads.

[Image: sig2.jpg]
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#46
Well the first body I didn't have much of a choice it was loose when I got it and had to just manually move it put it on sawhorses for now.
Also for the first body it doesn't have the engine part of the tub just firewall back to tailgate.
The Second frame my issue with bracing the doors, I will know better after I take a closer look but the door pillars are about rotted away.

As for experience level not super high and will never take offense to advice given for the good.
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#47
Ok if anyone has any suggestions I am game, here is where I am at. I have half wooden doors about like the tube doors built to put in the door jams but nothing to bolt them too. To lift the body I have 4 eye bolts in the middle 4 body mount holes.

My problem now is that the bed area wants to sag. I am debatting on a couple strategies not sure witch is best:
A. take the eye bolts out of the body mounts behind the seat and move them to the very back.
B. Take a piece of wood for each side and drill hols in it that line up with the very back body mount holes and the body mount holes behind the seat and bolt each piece in and put the eye bolts back in. Thinking of keeping eye bolts in the holes behind the seats and letting the boards lift the bed area.

Oh and I have chains running from the eye bolts to an engine hoist
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#48
Ok it took me all day and some messing around with different ways to utilize the body mount holes but I got the body off. Don't know if much of that body is usable anyways after looking it over completely, think I will just disasemble it piece by piece and keep what is good. Will begin by taking quarter panels and such off and see where we sit from there.

Also got the front end out and the front end on the rotisserie, boy is it so much easier to drag a frame around when it is on that thing. Still don't have the rear bumper off as I stripped a nut inside the frame when I was trying to take it off to put the other half of the rotisserie on. So any suggestions on busting that nut out would be great.

Engine and trans are still in there along with transfer case. I will leave the rear end in till I can get the bumper off so it will be easy to move as need be. Will get the engine out as soon as i get an engine stand one of the things I am still looking for.

Have several pics now got a few yesterday and got some more today will post in my gallery, even got a few of the body hanging in the air on the engine hoist.
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#49
Well done. Best u can likely do is drill out bolt. Willing to bet your time is worth more than most of those rusty parts on that body. Keep us posted!
'77 351w- Explorer EFI, 4R70W, 4-link, lockers, 4.56, 35" MT/Rs with a severe rock addiction.Confusedmokin:
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads.

[Image: sig2.jpg]
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#50
Yeah I already destroyed the rocker panels but i figure the rear quarters arn't too bad and the dash area metal area is pretty nice and parts of the core support is still pretty good, maybe a few other pieces I find along the way that I use so I don't have to be patient and wait on metal to arrive and just repair what I have.
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