73 Bronco

[wepuckett]

Thanks

I will double check the connectors but I know the pipe and regulater is 3/8. Might have to buy a few ends to swap some out. Might do that next time I am up near harbor freight as that is something that shouldn't be an issue buying from there. Also plan to pick up some things to make draining the water a little easier.

Would 1/4 connectors work with 3/8 connectors?

[chuzie]

Nope. Gotta swap out couplings too. HF has all of it in a package.

[wepuckett]

Guess i will be adding that to my list of things to pick up.

Also would it be ok to use pvc pipe to extend the distance of my air lines along the beam or do I need to use steel pipe?

[chuzie]

Steel

[Crawdad]

Here's where some dispute what to use. Steel will work but will rust on inside. Air condenses and water is created. Water will eventually settle in your pipes. If you use regular blk pipe I suggest a really nice air filter and dryer bc if you don't you may see rust coating on things you blow on to. There is galvanized pipe but it too corrodes or oxidizes. Mix that with water and you may see a white residue on things you blow on. Again, I'd use a really good filter dryer setup. Casey835 used polyethylene flexible pipe with SS quick connects. He has a Devilbiss air filter and does well with his sandblaster. Maybe he will chime in. I went with copper pipe bc I'm fairly good at sweating. Plus I has a lot of joints and connectors. All I had to buy was 50' of pipe. A cheaper soln is PVC pipe. I've seen lots use 3/4" pipe bc its easy to cut and glue. PVC isn't designed to hold 125lbs of pressure,but if you keep it at 90-100 you may be good. Your typical house only can handle 80lbs of water pressure till it starts blowing seals in faucets.

Regardless what pipe or tube you use, it's about the layout. You need that moisture inside your pipe to collect at a point or two. That's where a relief valve is needed. Do a search and you will see all diff designs. Another good thing to have is a good filter/ dryer. You will appreciate a good one when you start sandblasting or better yet painting. Fish Eyes in paint are caused by water droplets and or oil in the line. I have two water filters going to a hose reel. It does well for my use. My other outlet is set up for a nice air filter and dryer, should be ordering it this week. It will run the blasting cabinet and any painting that I choose.

[Timstrk]

I used cpvc to run a line from the big compressor in the garage to the garage out back. 100' run. Not regulated so it runs tank pressure (115psi) to a hose reel with s
25' rubber hose. No problems with it at all.

[wepuckett]

That is kinda funny the timming of your comment as I was thinking CPVC when I was readding Crawdads comment just now. I currently have a typical 25' line from sears running from compressor to beam down middle of basement just want something to go from there down about 20 feet maybe a bit less to a spot I can set a T up and work off of as I have a real and 100" hose I will hook up there think it is a 50" reel. But the real fun begins replacing the 1/4 fittings with 3/8, tell me if this thinking is crazy as I was thinking once I get the pipe down to my T to split it off for different lines to tools, I was thinking leave one or 2 1/4 and leave all my tools I currently have like impact, air wratchet and air chisel on the 1/4 but have a connection for 3/8 for sand blasting and painting and all the connections from there to the compressor be 3/8 as well. Or should I just switch everything over?

[chuzie]

If you can keep the pressure down then cpvc is the economical way to go. I guess i can't think of anything you would really need high pressure for to justify steel lines.

I like the idea of having a dedicated 3/8 hookup mixed with 1/4.

[wepuckett]

I figure a T or maybe a couple of T's should get me a few ports at the end of the line and why can't they be different sizes, mostly wasn't sure if I needed to upgrade to a larger input for better air flow for those tools.

[chuzie]

Input should be larger than out