front disk swap over view

[broncomatt]

Here is my version of the chevy disk swap for front axles.
This swap works on 71-75 dana 44 axles. These are a 6 bolt
spindle.
Here is what you need
Chevy parts 72-76 chevy blazer parts
spindles
backing plate/calipermount (you can use later
model backing plates which are thicker)
Calipers
inner spindle bearings
brake pads
flexible brake hose(braded recomended)
Caliper bolts(if they didnt come with the
Calipers)
Banjo bolts(2) for the hose
Ford parts for a late 70's ford truck(1/2ton)
Hub and rotor assembly(used ok, if new they come
separetly)
New bearings(inners and outers)
Late 70's f250 Master (front disk,rear drum)
You will reuse your spindle bolts, axle shaft and hub
Parts.

What to do,
Strip the axle down to the bare knuckle and axle shaft.
Install the backing plate and spindle(with new inner spindle
bearing installed). If using old hub/rotor bearings from a
donor truck be sure to repack the bearings. If using new stuff
install all bearings and race's into the hub/rotor. Install onto
spindle.
Here is where it is a little complicated. The caliper if mounted
right now would hit the knuckle and cause it not to work.
You must grind the knuckle down (some off the caliper works too)
to clear the inside edge
of the caliper(if you dont do this it would be unsafe).
Once the knuckle is ground down so the caliper can move
freely bolt the caliper (with new pads) in place. Next install the brake hose.
You may need to rerought the hard line so it mounts better to the flex hose.
I chose to use long braided steel lines.
Now go up and change the master cyl to the f250 master. Bleed
the brakes now.
When you reinstall the locking hub assembly you will notice the
axle shaft snap ring wont fit. It is common to use a bolt and
fender washer to hold it in place. I have not done this on my
setup, and have never had problems. But that is how it should
be done.
This is a basic overview on the swap, be sure to grind the axle
knuckle and bleed the brakes(front and rear) carefully.
It is always best to have someone who has torn these axles down
help with this swap.
Broncomatt

[cuz1]

So the outer knuckle of the axle does not have to be changed?


cw

[broncomatt]

no, the outer knuckle of a drum brake dana 44 is so simular to the chevy dana 44 that you can simply bolt the spindle, backing plates right up.
The hub/rotor assembly from the ford f150 4x4 (76-79) uses bearings that are correct to fit on the chevy spindles. The only issues are the ford axle shaft is slightly shorter so the snap ring wont fit(thats why they say use the washer and bolt in the end of the axle) and the caliper will hit the knucle right next to where it mounts. But grindng a 1/4 or so off the knucle doesnt hurt it.
Chevy calipers use a pin(bolt) to slide on, which tends to stay greased even after water crossings. Unlike the ford(actuly dana) H pin system that tend to seize and only use the inner pad.
The eb had disks in 76-77, but were 5 bolt spindles(uniqe to eb's). The F150 disk brakes can be swapped over too but you must reuse the knucle. That is also a diffrent tie rod hole which means you have to change the stearing lincage too. The chevy swap is simple, and uses less parts.
Broncomatt

[cuz1]

That is a lot easier than swapping out the f150 knuckle. Also, I did not realize the end of an axle shaft is threaded. cratchhe:

[broncomatt]

In the center of the end, threaded for a small(3/8-7/16") bolt. I belive it was done to add a puller to help get stuborn axles out. I personaly omit that part and after the last 10 years I have had no problems.
Broncomatt
Bro

[johnpaulgolf]

I am sooo studying this...actually just got my new front shoes, the brake man is going to turn my front drums tommorow and I will have some brakes at least.

[73Bronc]

Thanks for the details Matt. Can you send me the DVD? upergrin: I'll be printing this one for future reference. :xyxthumbs:

[cuz1]

Matt,
What do you do about the proportioning valve in the swap?

[broncomatt]

That depends, if your going to use drum rear you will need to get one for disk/drum. If your going disk in the rear too you can either leave it out completly or get a manual brake bias vavle and dial it in how ever you like it.
I left mine out, it currently has a bit more rear bias. That is how I prefer it.
You could use a manual bais vavle for a disk/drum setup too. Just remember to get the correct master(drums reqire resdual brake press).
Broncomatt

[cuz1]

I got my knuckles installed with the new ball joints. Everything is going smoothly so far. I need to find a proportioning valve for disk/drum. Also what about the brake booster and master cylinder set up?