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+---- Thread: Ms Piggy. Black and Blue! (/thread-3579.html)
Ms Piggy. Black and Blue! - broncosbybart - 11-29-2014
Thanks Chuzie.
The engine is about all together. The oil pan and front timing cover are on but just for mock up. Next step is to get it all set in place and make some engine and trans mounts. That won't go quickly...
In the pics, you'll see a rebuilt injector- had them serviced at a local shop here in Charlotte. They look like new! The head picture shows the marks I put on the head bolts. They are torque to a ft-lb value then turn 90 degrees past that. They don't yield but the Cummins manual doesn't specify an end torque. The bolts ended up at about 120 ft-lbs, according to my torque wrench.
A few pics for ya.
Ms Piggy. Black and Blue! - chuzie - 11-30-2014
What type of torque wrenches do you use for building engines? I have held off on investing in a good expensive set of digital wrenches; mostly due to high price and lack of need. Perhaps when I do my 351w stroker build (coming to a theater near you in the not too distant future), I will bite the bullet and spend the cash. I just don't trust my beam types or click types for critical components.
Sent from my GS3 on Cyanogenmod with T2.
Ms Piggy. Black and Blue! - broncosbybart - 11-30-2014
Snap-On click type. The digital units are nice. I really don't see the need for one though. Torques are important but a good click type is sufficient. I have both a 3/8 and 1/2 inch drive. For setting pinion preload I use one like this:
https://store.snapon.com/TORQOMETER-174-TORQUE-WRENCHES-C629542.aspx
Ms Piggy. Black and Blue! - chuzie - 11-30-2014
Those are great. I used to use them when rebuilding jet engines. I currently use a beam type for pinion preload. The torquometer is awesome since it records highest torque achieved. If the door is busted on your garage tomorrow and your fancy snap-on torque wrenches are missing, you know where to find me. ;-)
Sent from my GS3 on Cyanogenmod with T2.
Ms Piggy. Black and Blue! - broncosbybart - 11-30-2014
Ready for this to be a Bronco build thread again?
Today I cleaned up the garage a little and slid the Bronco back over to the lift. Got the engine off the hoist and used the hoist to get it set in the nose of the Bronco. After sizing up a few high dollar scraps of lumber I think I have it where it could end up.
A few issues though. First, the oil filter is going to be very close to the inner fender. The fitting going to the heater hose on the lower water neck is about in line with the end of the oil filter. I might have to modify that as well.
The oil return pipe for the turbo is right in the way of the mounting points on the block that I intend to use.
Of course the front crossmember will need to be modified, which is to be expected. On top of all that, I think I may need to massage the firewall a bit for the turbo/exhaust manifold.
The engine is slid back pretty far and is about as low as I think I can get it. The oil pan will need to be cut and modified to fit around the D60 front axle but the fit is better than I expected it to be. That may change if I have to slide the engine more toward the driver's side. We will see.
At least it feels a little like progress even though there is a bit more to do that I was hoping. Here are a couple of pics of what I'm up against. Might take a little figuring from here.
Ms Piggy. Black and Blue! - broncosbybart - 12-02-2014
Made some more progress. And found some more issues. And some of the steps forward take some retracing...
Here we go. For mock up purposes I attached the transmission and transfer case. First was the adapter plate from a Dodge 2500 along with the starter (to check fit). I omitted the clutch and flywheel for now. The bell housing came next. Finally some American fastners! No metric! The trans was pretty heavy to do by myself. The engine hoist came in very handy for getting it set in place. Last was the Atlas 4 speed transfer case. A quick fit indicated that I needed to clock it 1 hole from the 'flat' position. The 24" between frame rails makes things interesting. For now a combination of wood and the engine hoist/roll jack are being used to position things.
The front pulley and damper had to be removed to get the engine clear of the front cross member.
Ms Piggy. Black and Blue! - broncosbybart - 12-02-2014
A few things will need some work. The first is the turbo. The compressor housing is pointed straight out toward the fender and it has a bunch of oxidization in it. I will have to remove the housing, clean it up, and clock it on re-installation.
With the new to me exhaust housing, the turbo drains no longer line up anymore and will need some work.
For the mounts, I started off with the trans cross member. A piece of C channel was cut to length and my idea was to use some 1/4" plate to use factory Bronco style transmission mounts. I thought about using the rectangular Energy Suspension mount but I didn't trust it as nothing goes through it solidly and it could rip.
After getting halfway through it, I realized this wasn't going to work. The front drive shaft was going to contact it heavily when the axle drooped unless the cross member was dropped down further than I wanted it to.
So, out came the tubing bender and after a fair bit of work this was fabbed. It is made from 2" .120 wall DOM tube, which is the biggest stuff I can bend here. It might be a bit weaker than I really would like but it should be fine unless the weight of the rig is put upon it while wheeling. This took quite a while to figure out to clear the front drive shaft and for exhaust clearance on the other side.
Next will be the motor mounts, but I'm not there yet... Maybe by the weekend.
Ms Piggy. Black and Blue! - broncosbybart - 12-09-2014
Now onto the engine mounts. To start, I cut the original motor mounts apart and plan to use the 'cups' on the frame and use the left over plates to begin fabbing up the steel pieces for the engine.
One pic shows the beginning of the pass side. The oil return line for the turbo is right in the way of where I wanted to put the rubber mount.
Next is the driver's side starting out. I removed the PS pump to make the job easier but did keep it handy for a few trial fits to make sure nothing gets in the way during the process.
Here are a few pics of the motor mounts I used. On the left is an original Lord style found in the Chevy bread trucks. The rubber on it was cracked and soft so I decided not to use them. The new mounts are Anchor part # 2859. They also make a 2859SR (solid rubber) that is cheaper but I went for the hydraulic ones. These were right at $30 each from Summit Racing and are the same dimensions as the Lord mounts.
Ms Piggy. Black and Blue! - broncosbybart - 12-09-2014
Here the lower mounts are being drilled for the 2 studs in the lower portion of the motor isolators.
Then, the assembly tack welded to the frame rail on the driver's side. Next is a handy dandy USPS box being recycled into a template for fabricating the upper plate on the pass side.
There was a lot of cutting, grinding, and fitting taking place here. All the material used has been 1/4" thick mild steel. It should hold...
Ms Piggy. Black and Blue! - snipes243 - 12-09-2014
Looks good did you end up moving the engine back
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