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+---- Thread: ECORS Class A race rig build (/thread-2487.html)
ECORS Class A race rig build - broncosbybart - 04-14-2011
Thanks man. Been working non-stop on it. Pulled the spout connector and set the timing last night. It was actually advanced too much- sounded like a tractor once the spout plug was pulled. Now it sounds like it should!
The next race is in Auburn AL. Never been to AL before.... We shall see how that goes. I'd really hate to drive 6 hours each way to have something break or to not finish...
Next race is July 9 down in Spartanburg. That should be a good one. They are going to run in a stadium or old fairgrounds or something down there. Apparently they used to hold WEROCK races there.
ECORS Class A race rig build - broncosbybart - 04-17-2011
Got some more work done. I found a pusher fan from an A/C condesor at the bone yard. Got it mounted to the radiator and wired in. Got a few nick-nacks and am working on those as well- finishing the plumbing for the trans, fastening the fuel lines to the frame, cleaning up the wiring, and the like.
Here are a few pics.
First is the fan mounted in.
Second/Third are some of the wiring in the engine compartment. I got a mega fuse holder from Amazon (couldn't find one locally). I wanted to make sure the alternator to battery terminal was fused. It is mounted to the cowl, next to my fuse block for all the other circuits. Everything came out well and worked the first time (except for the tail lights). I had to put some new bulbs in there as the old ones were corroded. Otherwise, everything works exactly like it should (imagine that)....
ECORS Class A race rig build - broncosbybart - 04-17-2011
I have had a bear of a time finding radiator hoses. I have searched through all my local auto parts stores with some measurements and sketches of what I need. Nothing doing on the upper hose. I found something that worked for the lower hose, but had to cut it and mess around with it to make it work.
I ended up using one of those stainless flex hose kits for the upper. I had it laying around as I bought a few sets of those when they were on blowout for $5. Kind of makes me wonder how good they are... This is the first time I have actually tried one. It fits on fine, but I am really concerned with it leaking or slipping at the worst moment. I am kind of sketched out by the design. Hopefully some of you can calm my fears on these things...
ECORS Class A race rig build - broncosbybart - 04-17-2011
Ya like my rubber hose on the hood pins for setting the hood height in the front??? High dollar stuff right there...
Here are a few pics of the finished interior. It is very comfortable. I really like the seats recessed down into the body. Well worth the time and effort!!
ECORS Class A race rig build - broncosbybart - 04-17-2011
I got the spare tire mounted. I also had to put tubes in 2 of the tires due to damaged (leaking) bead surfaces. I really need some new tires...
Here is a pic of the rear of the bronco with the spare tire strapped down. The jack will go to the left of the tire. Still pondering where/how to do tool storage. I'm about out of room....
ECORS Class A race rig build - SC74 - 04-18-2011
broncosbybart Wrote:Second/Third are some of the wiring in the engine compartment. I got a mega fuse holder from Amazon (couldn't find one locally). I wanted to make sure the alternator to battery terminal was fused.
What gauge wire did you run from the exploder alt to battery? Do the local parts houses carry 2 and 4 gauge wires - have not even looked yet. What is the importance of fusing that wire? I've seen a lot of them fused but have never done it myself.
ECORS Class A race rig build - SC74 - 04-18-2011
broncosbybart Wrote:I really like the seats recessed down into the body. Well worth the time and effort!!
Don't say that.... you know it's one of my biggest regrets on Big Country. Always something I can do later though.
ECORS Class A race rig build - broncosbybart - 04-18-2011
Too funny. I will say that for yours, it would be a lot more work. I am pretty small and the rear cab body mounts did not need to be relocated. I would guess that you would need to move them back more so that you could cut more of the floor out, as you'd need more leg room. That would get to be a bunch of work in a hurry.
I used the stock Explorer cable for one section. I soldered a new terminal onto the cut end and put that on the one side of the fuse block. It was 4ga so I used about 1.5' of 4 ga to go from the fuse block to the battery terminal. I don't know that the fuse is essential, but thought it would be a good idea, in case the alt screws up and sends a current spike.
You could likely get 2 ga wire, but it isn't needed. I did buy 2 ga wires for the starter and for my ground to the engine. I have a 4 ga wire from the engine to the chassis and the stock braided wire going from the engine to what is left of the body tub. I did run all my grounds (except for the computer and engine harness) to the chassis, not back to the battery. Took a lot less wire and the chassis was all cleaned up. Shouldn't have any grounding issues.
ECORS Class A race rig build - broncosbybart - 04-18-2011
Got lotsa pics now. Woot Woot. Been a paintin' madman the past day or so.
We got it all mudded up good enough. One of my neighbors built a big buggy last year and he popped in w/his 11yr old son and we made it a sanding party. Big thanks to them! We knocked out most of the mudding and sanding in about 1/2 a day.
Here are some pics of it all shot in 6 year old primer. Took a while to stir, but was still good somehow... I don't feel like spending any more than I have to on this thing..
ECORS Class A race rig build - broncosbybart - 04-18-2011
Next came the Wimbledon White. I bought a quart of it and of the poppy red. Got LOTS of it left over... I painted the whole body white first. Ford did the same thing with the paint scheme. The poppy red is kind of dark, so I wanted as light a shade under it as I could get, to kind of make it 'pop' a little bit.