08-30-2010, 01:36 PM
Looking Good Man Did you move the front axle forward any?
68 Half cab
Chuzie's monster transformation
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08-30-2010, 02:40 PM
It is looking awesome, you'll be able to make some great left turns now!
Keep the 'carrier', it sets the truck apart! :beer:
Joseph I.T. Guy! "Weeehooo, uh oh!"
08-30-2010, 02:55 PM
snipes243 Wrote:Looking Good Man Did you move the front axle forward any? not moving the front at all...still up in the air on the rear...stay tuned for more
77 built 306,Trickflow Cam/Alum Heads/dome pistons/10:1comp,nv3550,duff long arms,3.5" lift,family cage,protofab rear bumper,twin sticked, and 35KM2'sG.D.I.
08-30-2010, 05:39 PM
Seats look good.
08-30-2010, 09:00 PM
Thanks. Got them from this guy I know.....
'77 351w- Explorer EFI, 4R70W, 4-link, lockers, 4.56, 35" MT/Rs with a severe rock addiction.mokin:
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads.
Day 4 (30 Aug 10)
Objectives for today: 1. Install rocker guards 2. Remove, clean, and paint rear axle 3. Prep 4-link parts for fitting and welding 4. Prep axle for 4-link cross member fitting Today was supposed to be a very productive day; however, it was anything but! The first order of business was to finish the rocker guard installation from the previous work day since we were only waiting for the paint to dry. I ran a bead of black silicone around the guard holes and the upper perimeter. I let it tack up and then slapped on the guard. Unfortunately, the driver's side guard gave me a lot of issues. The nutserts on the driver's side decided to take a spin, literally. I guess we did not have the holes tight enough to really secure them. To make matters worse, I was unable to remove one of the bolts due to a severely loose nutsert. I fought that sucker for a couple hours with no success. Finally, I had to cut a hole in the back of the rocker panel to get some vice-grips in there and hold the nutsert in place to just get the bolt removed which took another hour. Not a happy camper at all. Chuck used the angle grinder to remove all three nutserts and we ordered the next larger size. We will be unable to finish the driver's side until those parts arrive. The passenger side went much better until I realized that the lower backing plate was poorly assembled. The nuts welded on the back of the backing plate were misaligned and prevented me from threading the bolts. We used a larger drill bit to bore out the backing plate and then cleaned up any damaged threads with a tap. The passenger side is now complete. Thank goodness! That part of the project was a bit more laboring than I had thought it would be. Objective 1 incomplete. The folks at James Duff dropped a new set of shock hoops in the mail today so we should see them in 2 days. They were very willing to make the issue right. Hopefully the new shock hoops will fit perfectly. In the mean time, I went ahead and used a laser level to determine if my track bar was setup correctly. Looks like I need to shift to the driver's side about 5/8". I love my laser level; takes all the guess work out of this stuff. We removed the rear driveshaft, leaf springs, and then the axle. We ran out of time so the axle did not get cleaned and painted. It is pretty nasty too; just like the front. I also have a pinion seal leak so I am debating what to do with that since the axle is out and I have easy access. Objective 2 incomplete. Anyone see a trend for the day yet? Don't worry, I'm not done yet. I will cut this paragraph short since neither objectives 3 nor 4 were complete. The previous issues caused such a large delay and really cut into our production time so they too will have to wait until the next work day. Today was very frustrating and the delays are getting on my nerves. I am not in a rush to get this done so the ability to step back and take a deep breath is a luxury I currently have at this time. A big plus is I may not have my "vacation" until the end of the week so we may actually be able to get some 4-link stuff done. Day 4 complete. Objectives 1, 2, 3, and 4 incomplete Man Hours worked: 8 Total Project Man Hours: 39 ------------------
'77 351w- Explorer EFI, 4R70W, 4-link, lockers, 4.56, 35" MT/Rs with a severe rock addiction.mokin:
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads.
09-02-2010, 01:27 AM
Day 5 (1 Sep 10)
Objectives for today: 1. Clean, prep, and paint rear axle for 4-link. 2. Prep frame for 4-link 3. Prep 4-link parts for fitting and welding 4. Install cross-member, links, and frame mounts Today was a very productive day, which is a relief consider the past few have been really tough. I started out by plugging the brake lines and capping the vent line. Then I pressure washed the rear axle housing. Found some red paint under all the layers of gunk. Can't really imagine why the previous owner would have a red axle. Once the axle was nice and clean I broke out the plasma cutter and removed the spring perches, bump stop mounts, and shock tabs. I didn't want to risk damaging the axle housing so I decided to sacrifice the mounts and then grind down the remains with an angle grinder. Next, I started to fit the cross member or truss to the axle housing. The first thing I did was center it horizontally and mark the outline of the truss on the housing for reference. Next was the grinding and is where a lot of trial and error and patience came in to play. The first time I placed the truss on the housing the outer ends where the truss mates to the tube were not sitting flush. The truss was basically tettering on the high points on the top of the housing. At first, I tried marking the points I thought were causing the issue with a sharpie; thinking a few passes with the grinder would fix the issue but the progress was slow and painful. After about 10 rounds of grinding and very little progress, I decided to start using an extra can of primer to highlight the problem areas in need of grinding. I painted the housing and placed the truss on top while the paint was still wet. The paint transferred to the truss at the high spots I needed to grind. After about, I kid you not, 40 passes. I finally got the truss to fit the axle like a glove. I then painted the axle with my cheapo black paint and then cleaned up the areas necessary for welding. Objective 1 complete. The stock spring hangars, bump stop mounts, and shock towers had to be removed from the frame to accommodate the 4-link. I started to use the plasma cutter but decided to stick with the angle grinder for the sake of my frame. It took hours to just get the forward spring hangars and bump stop mounts removed. By then I was so beat I just left the rear spring hangars and shock towers for another time since they will not directly affect the installation of the 4-link system. Objective 2 incomplete due to remaining mounts. The truss and the frame mounts had to be prepped for welding. We ground down the powder coating to about 1/4 on all the surface affected edges. Next I assembled the links by mating the heims and lock nuts. As always, I coated everything with anti-seize first. I ran into one issue when installing the heims. One of the 3/4" heims for an upper link did not want to thread more than half-way so we had to run a tap through the link and clean out the threads. It was not a powder coating issue either. Actually, a decent amount of metal material was removed. Not sure what happened with that one but it worked like a champ after we re-tapped it. All the heims were bottomed out and then run back out 4 full turns to allow for adjustment once installed on the Bronco. Objective 3 complete. Now for the part where we actually start to get some cool stuff done. First, Chuck tack welded the truss to the axle. Then we slid it under the Bronco and installed the tires. At that point we needed to position Bronco for correct ride height, position the axle for the correct wheel base, center it laterally, and set our pinion angle. We set the ride height almost equal to where the front was sitting. It may be about 1/2" higher. We used two jack stands on the rear of the fram to secure the Bronco. Since we did not take and measurements or mark any reference points prior to removing the axle, we had to start from scratch in terms of laterally centering the axle. Here is how we did it... We marked the center of the forward and rear frame cross members. Then, we took our handy laser level and shot a beam connecting the two points. The beam was superimposed on the axle and truss and we used that to center the axle perfectly under the Bronco. Next we measured the wheel base. Stock is 92". We had read some folks were sliding theirs back about 2" so we decided to give 94" a try. To obtain our wheelbase measurements, we took the laser level and marked the center of the front hubs on the floor with tape. Then we measured back 94" and marked that with tape too. Then, we used the laser level to shoot another line where the center of the rear hubs should be positioned. We had to measure it about 3 times to get it right since each time we moved one tire the other would move slightly. Next, we had to setup our pinion angle. We decided to use 0 degrees (relative) considering we will not have any wrap issue. Once we got the pinion angle set we used the jack to hold it in place. We double checked the aft clearance and determined that 94" was too far back as the truss would contact the rear frame cross member if it compressed too much. 93" was the compromise we went with. We can still fine tune the system later if we desire to get closer to the rear. Once everything was measure and set we started to install the links to the truss and frame mounts in preparation to weld the frame mounts to the frame. The frame mounts need to be reamed to accept the link bolts but that was not big deal. This stuff is pretty heavy though! Once everything was connected we marked the frame locations and called it a night since it was getting late. Objective 4 incomplete. Day 5 complete. Objective 3 incomplete Man Hours worked: 10 Total Project Man Hours: 49
'77 351w- Explorer EFI, 4R70W, 4-link, lockers, 4.56, 35" MT/Rs with a severe rock addiction.mokin:
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads.
09-02-2010, 08:30 AM
awesome Chuzie! today those frame mounts are gonna get tacked in....should look way better!
77 built 306,Trickflow Cam/Alum Heads/dome pistons/10:1comp,nv3550,duff long arms,3.5" lift,family cage,protofab rear bumper,twin sticked, and 35KM2'sG.D.I.
09-02-2010, 10:15 AM
Nice work ya'll! I'm getting excited to see the final product!!
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
79 FS 351M, Trac loc HPD44, Detroit 9", 4.56's, 37 Toyo's, 17" Helo Maxx 6
09-02-2010, 01:54 PM
Great build thread! I see my favorite tool of all in use - it's blue and 12 oz upergrin:
'74 Grocery Getter, '73 Project Buggy, '77 Parts Rig
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