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the 77's upgrades
From what I've read, the EEC wants to see 195 degree temps. I ended up putting a 195 in the racer, after starting with a 180.
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Chuck, to answer your VSS question from the other day I have taken this extract from the EEC bible.

"For a manual transmission MAF Mustang, the VSS is used to maintain an 1100 idle when coasting to a stop until you drop below ~8 mph. I’ve known a few people who converted their speed density cars to MAF that had stalling problems when pushing in and holding the clutch at speed until the VSS sensor was hooked up."

As far as the t-stat is concerned, The stock is actually 192*. That being said there is a huge debate on what to run in these engines for many reasons.

The EEC does not care if the engine is at 195*.
It retards the timing 2 degrees upon reaching 190*.
Running cooler than stock is both good and bad. The good is obvious. The bad is two fold. First, if your temp does not get above 160*, you risk the potential for condensed water to not evaporate from the oil which will reduce lubrication effectiveness and premature engine wear. Also, the EEC will force itself out of closed loop scheduling when below 140*.

With that in mind, I run the 180* stat. Why? I keep my timing at 10 degrees, I stay in closed loop, and I am still able to purge my oil of any moisture.
'77 351w- Explorer EFI, 4R70W, 4-link, lockers, 4.56, 35" MT/Rs with a severe rock addiction.Confusedmokin:
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads.

[Image: sig2.jpg]
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got a few things done...

installed new rancho 9000's, they swapped out my other shocks because they werent working right. the new shocks seem good. wired up a stock ford horn and horn button...found the fuse for dome/cg lighter blown...not sure why, maybe all the dash removing and stuff earlier. also found a turn signal flasher not working right...would flash a couple times and stop. swapped it with hazard flasher for testing and all works now. i need to get a new one and swap hazard back where it came from. oh yeah...installed some rear 4.5" bump stops. like to get some front installed soon
77 built 306,Trickflow Cam/Alum Heads/dome pistons/10:1comp,nv3550,duff long arms,3.5" lift,family cage,protofab rear bumper,twin sticked, and 35KM2'sG.D.I.
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Most people would consider disconnecting the battery before removing the dash.

Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk 2
'77 351w- Explorer EFI, 4R70W, 4-link, lockers, 4.56, 35" MT/Rs with a severe rock addiction.Confusedmokin:
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads.

[Image: sig2.jpg]
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battery was removed jerky
77 built 306,Trickflow Cam/Alum Heads/dome pistons/10:1comp,nv3550,duff long arms,3.5" lift,family cage,protofab rear bumper,twin sticked, and 35KM2'sG.D.I.
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Glad to see someone is making progress, so who's ride did you borrow that flasher from.....
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
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Ha! Where do you think Matt? The only permanent spare parts fixture in his backyard. Hint: It is yellow!
'77 351w- Explorer EFI, 4R70W, 4-link, lockers, 4.56, 35" MT/Rs with a severe rock addiction.Confusedmokin:
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads.

[Image: sig2.jpg]
Reply
as for the flasher...i swapped the emergency flasher, it worked good...so its now doing turn signals...and the old one is in the emergency flasher spot until i get a new one...might replace both-i know they are both original to the centech i installed back in the old red bronco lol.


just ordered a complete shim/clutch kit for the trac lock i will be installing next weekend. ill be removing the lock right.
77 built 306,Trickflow Cam/Alum Heads/dome pistons/10:1comp,nv3550,duff long arms,3.5" lift,family cage,protofab rear bumper,twin sticked, and 35KM2'sG.D.I.
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good thing i opened the posi up...the fiber disc were shot all the material was flaking off. the new kit should be by the 21st...so hopefully a weekend rebuild will work out
77 built 306,Trickflow Cam/Alum Heads/dome pistons/10:1comp,nv3550,duff long arms,3.5" lift,family cage,protofab rear bumper,twin sticked, and 35KM2'sG.D.I.
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not surprising. glad you tore it apart. don't forget to presoak the fibers in gear oil or ATF for at least 30 minutes before installing.
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