Thread Rating:
  • 1 Vote(s) - 5 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
Ms Piggy. Black and Blue!
Meh, I've been working out Smile


Power steering pump is gear driven off the engine and is located on the back side of the timing cover, right below the injection pump.

As for the fan, it will be running a standard electric puller type fan. From what I've read, the diesels actually run cold and don't require a lot of cooling.


Got the seats, seat belts, and center console all mounted. They are all bolted to a tubular support structure which is part of the roll cage. I used 1-3/4 DOM for it. The rear seat mounts are made from 1" square tube, as I wanted the seats to slope toward the back and be as low as possible.

I did get some sliders for the seats, so they are adjustable for the next person who owns it after I'm dead...

For the rearmost roll cage hoop, I am going to use some trick tabs and some 3/4" DOM to bolt it to the rear body mounts.


Edit- disregard the pile of wiring on the floorboard. Or, just call me CJ (chuzie jr).


Attached Files Image(s)
                               
Reply
That hurt. The adjustable seats were a good idea. Someone may be using them sooner than you planned!

Sent from my GS3 on Cyanogenmod with the older / better version of Tapatalk!
'77 351w- Explorer EFI, 4R70W, 4-link, lockers, 4.56, 35" MT/Rs with a severe rock addiction.Confusedmokin:
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads.

[Image: sig2.jpg]
Reply
Poor Sport!

Back to working on the dash. Nothing like doing something twice. Out came the cutting tools and the hack-a-thon commenced. The speedometer head and the right side heater control knobs were moved to make room for some more goodies!

Above the speedo head now reside the switches for the ARB compressor and lockers. Another set of switches was added between the dash knobs and the seat heater controls were located to the right side of the dash, about the only real estate left on the entire thing.

Obligatory pics attached.


Attached Files Image(s)
                               
Reply
Git er done Bart. Nice work.
Reply
Got the front apron pretty well fixed up. Had to fix several of the square mounting holes for the fenders. Fixed a few of the minor rust areas and bolted it and the nose metal back on.

Took the fiberglass hood out of hiding and got it mounted up. I have to tweak on it a bit but it fits pretty well.

With the warm weather the other day, I painted a bunch of parts. Pedal assemblies are reassembled and I'm back to working on the hydroboost and brakes. Got the intercooler piping figured out. Will finish plumbing the hyroboost and steering in the next few days.

Clay stopped by the other day and helped me get the cage out of it so that I can finish welding it up. She looks funny now. Thanks for the help Clay!


Attached Files Image(s)
                           
Reply
Well, the body is back off the frame. I decided to have it blasted and will try to get it painted before the cold of winter is upon us. I used some 3M stripping discs in the angle grinder to remove most of the exterior paint, bondo, and seam sealer. Trying to save time with the guy who will be blasting it, which should save some money.

Since the weather sucked today I did some real work and went down to the garage in the afternoon. Decided it was a good day to do something easy and not too involved. Broke out the box of wiring goodies and installed me some rock lights. There is a rock light thread on Pirate with all kinds of info on it. I decided to use some LED's from Amazon that were pretty cheap and not very big. The pic next to my keys gives a sense of scale for these things. The round lights came in a pack of 12 and the rectangular bars come in packs of 2. They draw next to no current and put out a fair amount of light for their size. I mounted the round lights in the frame and on the frame horns as the frame horns already had holes in them and it made it that much easier. Rock on!


Attached Files Image(s)
                                       
Reply
Those look nice, can come in super handy not having to pull the work lights out when you work underneath it too.
Reply
Get back out there and fix that shadow!
'77 351w- Explorer EFI, 4R70W, 4-link, lockers, 4.56, 35" MT/Rs with a severe rock addiction.Confusedmokin:
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads.

[Image: sig2.jpg]
Reply
those look sweet bart! cleaness install of lights yet! how much were they?
77 built 306,Trickflow Cam/Alum Heads/dome pistons/10:1comp,nv3550,duff long arms,3.5" lift,family cage,protofab rear bumper,twin sticked, and 35KM2'sG.D.I.
Reply
Thanks! The lights were super cheap. A few links to chase:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C1YI...ge_o08_s00

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MVMR...ge_o01_s00



I wanted to run dual batteries and have seen it done a few different ways. I decided to run one battery in the stock location and the other on the driver's side. I had to add a fender brace to that side in order to support the battery tray.

While there I realized that the straps for the battery boxes interfered with the 1" rectangular tube that I put on the inside of the core support. I had to notch and section it on both sides where the hold down straps bolt.


Finally got the friendly neighborhood sandblaster to pay me a visit. No more makeup!


Attached Files Image(s)
                               
Reply


Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 38 Guest(s)