Homebuilt SxS

[ParadisePWoffrD]

Its been some time since an update. I have been wheeling this thing some. It is fun and does good, even on some harder trails.
2 things I want to address: Get 2wd low, and PS upgrade.
I have been addressing the 2wd low and will explain below. Anyone know of a smaller pulley for sidekick PS pump?


I used this write to remove the detent ball from the shift forks. You must have the case on the bench, as it will come completely apart.

http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/build-dia...-pictures/

I also noticed that there were twin stick kits out there, but they arent cheap. And the basis of this build is cheap. So figured, Ill give it a shot.


TWIN STICK BUILD


1. Take the factory shifter from the tower, and trace the bottom section onto cardboard for a template.



2. Measuring the stock shifter I found it was 2 1/16" from the tip of the shifter to the pivot point and 9/16" from the pivot point to the top of the shifter cup.


3. I decided to make my shifter bars 4" long, to give some length sticking out the top of the cup. This was to give me some length to attach extentions to. You could make these the full length you want your shifters to be.


4. I found some 1/4" scrap plate mying around, which happens to be the same width as the factory shifter. I traced the shape from the cardboard to the steel to make my cuts.


5. I used my portaband to cut them out to a rough shape and bench grinder to clean them up. A vertical bandsaw would be really nice, but could also be done be a cutoff wheel.


6. Here is the finished shifter rods after cleaning them up. I had to thin the tips of the shifters after test fit, so they wouldnt interfere with the opposing rails. As you can see in the pic, I marked the pivot point and top of cup on the bars.



7. Next comes time to put the pivot point in. I chose to use the factory pivot height, as I knew there was enough travel in the rods from the location. In the center of the rod at the pivot point location, I drilled a 1/4" hole. The sidewalls of the rod are kinda thin on mine, so you may be able to go bigger/smaller depending on how you built your bars.



8. At this point I needed to decide how to put the shifters in the tower. I basically had 2 options:

- do what aftermarket companys do, and build a cup that fits inside the factory tower.
- use the factory tower to hold the shifter.

The first option is much nicer and allows easier installation into the vehicle through factory shifter hole. After measuring the shifter tower, I found it to measure 2" OD and 1.61" ID. I did not have any tubing this size, and dont have access to a lather, so I decided that option 1 wasnt going to work for me. If someone else wants to know my ideas for this, I will be happy to share.

Option 2: I drilled opposing holes into the side of the shifter tower at the same height as the factory pivot point. After measuring multiple times, this is located 23/32" from the top of the tower. That will give you the height measurement. To find the location on the sides, turn the tower upside down, and mark your center points based on the flats on the bottom of the shifter hole. The hole is not circular, and is rotated slightly in oreintation. If you use the factory shifter bolts, they will cause your holes to be off. Drill these holes with same bit as used in the bars.


9. Next I picked up a 2 1/2"-1/4" bolt, 2-fender washers, 1-lock washer and nut, 4-nylon washers, and 17-flat washers.

I placed the fender washers on the outside of the cup with the lock washer and nut.

As I inserted the bolt I placed on 8 flat washers, 1 nylon washer, first shifter, 1 nylon washer, 1 flat washer, 1 nylon washer, 2nd shifter, 1 nylon washer, & 8 flat washers. A small magnet is nice to hold the washers in place as you insert the bolt and lower them in place.

For the final assembly i will replace the 8 washers on each side with a solid spacer, but these helped get exact width and positioning during mock-up. There really isnt any reason you couldnt use the washers perminently though.

Here is a pic of it all together:



10. At this point, you will want to verify that the shifters are in the correct rails and are not interferring with the other rails. I used a pair of vice-grips to shift the rails back and forth a few times to make sure it was all tight and working.


11. Now you can decide how and what to use for the upper shifters, and how you will attached them. I am currently at this step myself and will update once I complete it, but I will most likely have something that bolts to the side of these arms so that i can leave it assembled during installation. If you weld a long arm on top, it may be challenging to install into the vehicle.