Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
Installing new Edelbrock intake & carb
#1
This past weekend I was able to get my bronco started and running on its own I might add. BUT!!!! the Holly carb is dripping gas on the intake manifold while the bronco is on. Well instead of replacing gaskets (something I have never done anyways) I plan to intall the new Edelbrock intake and carb I bought back before Xmas. I have never done this before so don't laugh too much!

Can some of you give me some pointers on what I should do before I remove the old carb/ intake? Do I need to remove distributor, oil, water, etc??? I figure I will remove all of it in one piece if it allows me to. I noticed a lot of bolts on top of the 351's manifold. I guess that would be a great place to start by removing them first. I'll put up pictures soon. Thx guys!
[SIZE="2"]77 project bronco w/ 5.0 & c4, Sagi PS, 2 hard tops, eyebrow grill [/SIZE]
WANTED: auto column, gas tank, front/ rear seats
Reply
#2
drain the radiator fluid, remove plug wires,cap,rotor(just to get out of the way) disconnect all wires on the intake and carb, remove linkage and vac. lines. remove intake and clean the surfaces good. i think most people will only use RTV on the front and rear of the intake to the block...no gaskets there. make sure the head gaskets stay put when lowering the intake...should be easy job
77 built 306,Trickflow Cam/Alum Heads/dome pistons/10:1comp,nv3550,duff long arms,3.5" lift,family cage,protofab rear bumper,twin sticked, and 35KM2'sG.D.I.
Reply
#3
Here are the pics of the last two items to go in. I took the manifold out of the box and noticed no gasket came with it. Do I need to purchase a gasket or not? If so which brand is better/ best?


Attached Files Image(s)
       
[SIZE="2"]77 project bronco w/ 5.0 & c4, Sagi PS, 2 hard tops, eyebrow grill [/SIZE]
WANTED: auto column, gas tank, front/ rear seats
Reply
#4
I always put rags down the intake side of the cylinder head openings to keep crap out while I am removing the gasket material. i try and lay shop rags down in the lifter valley as well. you will most definitely need intake gaskets. get a carb base gasket (if you don't have one). you might have air cleaner clearance issues with choke/throttle linkages.

i do use RTV in place of any rubber gaskets for the front and rear sections of the intake. do not use any on the side intake gasket surfaces. when doing the RTV trick, make a nice continuous 1/4 inch bead of it and let it set for about 10 minutes before putting the intake on. this will give the RTV a little skin and will keep it from going everywhere all at once. again, you are just going to do this on the skinny parts of the engine sealing surfaces on the front and rear.

i do change the oil as well once I am done. fire it up for a few minutes then change it. it always seems like some water gets in the oil when the intake is removed...

don't forget a new t-stat and gasket.

edit- just saw your pic. you already have a carb base gasket. for intake gaskets, fel-pro works for me.
Reply
#5
you might have to go with low profile air cleaner. thats what i have and a 2 inch body lift and have minimal hood clearance. its always nice to see nice shiny parts in pics..
If you can't fix it with a hammer and a welder then your gonna need a new one!
Reply
#6
firefighter2134 Wrote:you might have to go with low profile air cleaner. thats what i have and a 2 inch body lift and have minimal hood clearance. its always nice to see nice shiny parts in pics..

Does anyone know the brand of this air cleaner/ filter? My dad never ran a filter b/c it hit the hood?!!!! No wonder its clogged up!

UPDATE: I found out how much this darn thing costs!! $300, its a Holly. Yikes!
[SIZE="2"]77 project bronco w/ 5.0 & c4, Sagi PS, 2 hard tops, eyebrow grill [/SIZE]
WANTED: auto column, gas tank, front/ rear seats
Reply
#7
If you don't already have a vacuum gauge, I'd get one to tune the idle circuit of the carburetor. It makes all the difference in the world. I put an offroad kit and a little different metering rods in mine also. I'm sure it will fire right up out of the box though.
Reply
#8
jdowns67 Wrote:If you don't already have a vacuum gauge, I'd get one to tune the idle circuit of the carburetor. It makes all the difference in the world. I put an offroad kit and a little different metering rods in mine also. I'm sure it will fire right up out of the box though.

Here is where I show my lack of experience in the carb world. What is a vacume guage? Is this another guage that is installed on my dash?? Who makes a good vacume guage?
[SIZE="2"]77 project bronco w/ 5.0 & c4, Sagi PS, 2 hard tops, eyebrow grill [/SIZE]
WANTED: auto column, gas tank, front/ rear seats
Reply
#9
Here is an example of what I am talking about. You hook it to you carburetor when you are adjusting the idle mixture. They have them at Advance or Autozone. Most people don't realize that at low RPM cruising, your idle mixture is a large part of your running mixture. Too lean and you will get surging and too rich you get sputtering, smoke, etc.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WMR-W80594/?rtype=10
Reply
#10
firefighter2134 Wrote:you might have to go with low profile air cleaner. thats what i have and a 2 inch body lift and have minimal hood clearance. its always nice to see nice shiny parts in pics..

How low do you think, 1" or 1.5"? What size filter do you use? I wouldn't mind spending a lil on something different! The standard 14" round in black like some of Edelbrocks are nice, especially the oval ones! I wonder if one of the Ram air tubes would work????
[SIZE="2"]77 project bronco w/ 5.0 & c4, Sagi PS, 2 hard tops, eyebrow grill [/SIZE]
WANTED: auto column, gas tank, front/ rear seats
Reply


Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 2 Guest(s)