what have you wrenched on your bronco(s) today?

[chuzie]

Using raw data is dangerous as it is easy to get sucked into the numbers and forget about safety factors. I think I will ditch the hammerlock link and find a better solution. Unfortunately, the ears on my 3/4" clevis are too large to fit through the eye of my locking hook. Back to the drawing board. Thanks for recaging me.

[scbronco]

Get a larger locking hook. Or replace it with and d ring. Just saying.

[chuzie]

I am returning the hook and using clevis as primary. Not willing to waiver on safety.

Sent from my GS3 on Cyanogenmod with the older / better version of Tapatalk!

[Broncitis]

Drove er to town to get a few things and came home and wrapped the main bar with padding. Tack welded the mirror mount. Screwed a stand your ground box into the floorboard.

[broncosbybart]

Hosed mine down and did a once over on some bolts. We will see what the weekend holds.

[Broncitis]

This will be the first time I have been able to really try mine out. Wonder what will break first. Heres wishing everyone a safe trip to the meet.

[Crawdad]

I pretty much finished the first phase of my rotisserie build. I need some tabs to hold the top lip of the four frame corners. I'll do that tomorrow while I'm at Drill. It's a bear to turn by myself, it's all could do to get it at 45 degrees. The weight is not concentric so that's the biggest issue. But any higher I'm gonna need a ladder. Phase 2 I will beef it up with some 3/16" tubing and drop the pivot point and make it adjustable. The width right now is 53" but the next step is to add tubing underneath and make it 66" wide for stability. I plan to bolt that wider stance on and it too will have wheels. The bronco frame is apprx 13' long so I will add 13' of tubing on each side to connect the two ends. Again, those will be bolted on as well. My end result is to have a "convertible" rotisserie. Mine can be unbolted easily for transport, and for maneuverability around the garage.

[wepuckett]

If you use square tubing in the center you can weld larger square tubing on each end in the center then get smaller square tubbing to slide through that in about 8 foot pieces then another larger piece in the middle so you can weld nuts on the larger square tubbing and drill holes below the nuts you weld on so you can tighten it down to the length you want or even collapse it completely and put it in the corner when done. If you need a pic I can try to get one of how they did mine, but it is kinda burried atm lol.

[Crawdad]

I've got so many pictures it's not funny. Most rotisseries are made for all kinds of cars in various widths and lengths. And the prices are through the roof! Mine won't be perfect but once it's beefed-up I feel it will work for anyone working specifically on EBs. For now it holds the frame very well. The backside of the rotisserie will get lots of thicker metal.

[Broncitis]

I got the part numbers for the spring loaded needle and seat as well as the bowl gaskets from Edelbrock tech service as well as what to do to reduce flooding issue on inclines by blocking off the trough between the bowls. Got the parts ordered and will do it when they arrive. The needle and seat Pt# is 1465 and the # for the gasket set is 1472. Also discovered the right rear axle is leaking so I have to get out there and pull the axle to find out if I have the medium or large wheel bearings and get them ordered. Need to go get more tubing so I can start a roll bar for the half cab. Does anyone have any input on what ga. metal to use in fabricating the bulkhead.