matt, if you had a rear posi i would trade ya. im running 3.50 with lock right now. id rather have 4.56..but i'll rock 4.11's for a while til i can upgrade.im sure since your is a street truck...you wouldnt want a lock right...just putting it out there.
besides...now that i think of it...i still have the 3.50 gears from chuzies rig. sitting on my bench i think
77 built 306,Trickflow Cam/Alum Heads/dome pistons/10:1comp,nv3550,duff long arms,3.5" lift,family cage,protofab rear bumper,twin sticked, and 35KM2'sG.D.I.
i have no use for the 3.50s and they are just collecting dust on a shelf they are already dismantled from the trac lock carrier that came outta the 79. pm me your addy and ill just throw them in a flat rate box and send them to ya.
If you can't fix it with a hammer and a welder then your gonna need a new one!
Matt unfortunately there is not much you can do with the 170/200 head since the intake and head are cast as one part. I have read on ford 6 and in the hand book that you can get an Aussie head and intake that are separate for $$$$ of course.
The engine that is in it now was bought new and the casting numbers say it came out of a 68/69 Falcon if I remember right. So that is where I would start looking for carb info.
if i remember correctly the old 200 six i had came out of a maverick. i will look and see if head is removable. i averaged 16 to 20 miles gallon with 33s and 4.10s. it had a carter 1bl carb. and i upgraded to a pertronix elec ign in the dizzy. other than that bone stock. also was running manual transmission. which tranny are you running matt? if you are using an auto then your milage will not be as high.
If you can't fix it with a hammer and a welder then your gonna need a new one!
Wish I could help ya, I sent out the last posi I had in the 79. But no I dont want the lock right either, I had one and blew it. Was never that impressed.
Thanks for the link Paul, I'm happy with the 170 untill I can get around to building the 200. The other engine seems to be from a granada, thats also the donor for rebuilt carb i got off ebay. I think its too big for the 170. The carb that was on it was full of rust, I bought a rebuild kit for a stock eb carb but it was nothing like this carb. So with out knowing exactly what rebuild kit to get I am stuck with this other carb. I do plan to tear it down and soak it for now. If I'm really lucky I might be able to reuse some gaskets. We'll see.
Thanks Asiel, Mine is from a falcon so I'm sure there close. Its good to know it could be a carter carb, its already got the modern igition and the manual 3 speed trans. I think if I put the 350 gears that will be correct for the size tires I am running. Then I need to do the exhaust.
Since I plan to keep this size tire the 350 gears will match better. I will snap a pic of the carb that came off the 170, I did join the fordsix forum but it seems that other than the exhaust improvements the best I can afford to do for this rig is the carb and gears. If that can help with mph and overall street ablity I will be happy.
blazinchuck Wrote:matt, if you had a rear posi i would trade ya. im running 3.50 with lock right now. id rather have 4.56..but i'll rock 4.11's for a while til i can upgrade.im sure since your is a street truck...you wouldnt want a lock right...just putting it out there QUOTE]
[QUOTE69bronco
Matt unfortunately there is not much you can do with the 170/200 head since the intake and head are cast as one part. I have read on ford 6 and in the hand book that you can get an Aussie head and intake that are separate for $$$$ of course.
The engine that is in it now was bought new and the casting numbers say it came out of a 68/69 Falcon if I remember right. So that is where I would start looking for carb info.
Is that a pic of the 200 or 170 head? My 170 doesnt seem to have a hole there?
Here are some pics of the carb that came off the 170, I compared it to a carb for a falcon, not the same but close. Can anybody help ID it?
Ok, so I figured out what the carb is. Its a yf carter for a ford, made some where from 1946 to the 60's. Shouldent be hard to get the rebuild kit for it.
I found the same hole that is on the head Aziel posted, except mine doesnt have a large hole to fit the sensor. It has a small (3/8) bolt hole that is into a coolant passage but wont fit the sensor. So I used a brass T and put it inline on the heater hose. That wont work in mid summer but it works for now.
I wanted to build a center consol to fit the radio I have for it. But the radio knob was broken (again) so I have to send it out to be fixed. So I scrapped that plan for now and yanked the radio from the rv. Turns out it has a bad channel on it so only one side works and out of the 2 enclosed speaker boxes I had been saving one of them was bad. So for now I have a crappy radio with one speaker (did I forget to mention I dont have an antena for it either) that can only play cassets.:banghead:
Thanks to Aziel I have a 350 rp to put in the rear. That will help with the overall driveablity so I will be tearing into that this weekend. I still need a new rear drive shaft as the one thats in there has a vibration due to the worn splines and the lift kit.
I did rob the tach from the rv so know I finaly have all the guages working and all that I could need for guages. I tuned the carb better and soon I think it will be up to par. :beer:
they will have 2 different rebuild kits for that carb based on the casting numbers. one is readily available and the other is about 40 ish and will prob have to be ordered for next day pickup. or at least that is what i ran into when i rebuilt mine. the head that i posted the pic of was a 200.
If you can't fix it with a hammer and a welder then your gonna need a new one!
Now that I have some parts its back in the shop again. Going to do the rear gear swap, try and fix the radiator leak (jbweld not cutting it) and adjust on the soft top some. If it all goes well I may try and get the OE bumper I have off and straiten it. I also need to cut off the pipe on the rear.
I did get the front gears coming from a guy on classic. Also scored a front aux gas tank on classic. Still need to get a 3 way valve but for now its a start.
Anybody ever put speakers in the door inserts on the inside? It seems a small 4" speaker would fit?
I'll try and snap some pics as I go.