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Help in Raleigh
#1
Looking for some help in the Raleigh area...Bought this 68 about 2 months ago from a guy in Charlotte area. The truck basically was done by someone else (no idea who), neither does the PO....Heres the issues that i need some technical help with..
1)Brakes/would like to convert to disc in front, its on a dana 30 axle currently. The drums currently on are REAL weak..ive bled the system and still not sure if tweaking the drums or doing the conversion is the way to go?
2) Lowering (possible removal of 3" body lift) still has 4" duff suspension kit on it and the truck currently sits on 35's...once lowered i would like to put 33's which i have available, onto this truck. Truck is manual steering and is quite treacherous to drive. I can manage the steering part, but when driving on a 2 lane road and when oncoming traffic approaches, it can make you cringe!!! Any input if this would help?
3) Truck will crank and crank, but only fire up when using starter fluid...once its started it will run fine...until truck is turned off, then same deal with the starting procedure (ether)..Truck did sit for about a year with minimal use
4) Gas tank/fuel lines...I believe that the truck has the original tank on it...is it best to flush out? or replace?
5) wipers are vacuum...and they suck! would like to convert over to electric

ANY HELP or input, or recommendations based on this list would be greatly appreciated!:xyxthumbs:
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#2
Did you buy that from Seth??? He is a friend of mine.
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#3
Since you have a Dana 30, I'd do the Chevy disc conversion. Check some of the Bronco vendors for the kits. Should be pretty straightforward to remove the body lift. You didn't say what carburetor but my be is that the accelerator pump isn't working right. Been down that road.

JD
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#4
Thanks for the questions. You would be doing well to drop that truck back down and run the 33's. I'd recommend power steering and put new track bar bushings in as well. Make sure all your linkages are tight in the front end/steering. That should really help.

You might be best served to find a D-44 front axle with discs already and just throw it under there at the same time. The 76-77 models will require a new tie-rod. The knuckles are different on them. Don't forget to change the proportioning valve while you are at it. You'll need a 76-77 style instead of the H block currently in there.

You probably have a fuel pump or carb issue with it not cranking. I'd recommend rebuilding the carb (or new one) and replacing the pump. You can drop the tank and clean it. Chances are that the fuel gauge in the sending unit doesn't work anyway and the whole sending unit would need to be replaced. They are about $50 or so.

There are several styles of electric wiper conversions out there. Check with the Bronco vendors and settle on the one you prefer the most.
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#5
welcome aboard, before dropping the truck...check to see if they have the body lift sitting on old body bushings(worn out rubber) if so...just order a new bushing kit from Wild Horses that way you will have everything you need to put it back right. if you got column shift 3sp or auto...you will need to shorten those shift rods,check brake lines for kinking when dropping, and check fan shroud and exhaust routing...some times people run it over the frame.

sounds like accelerator pump might be bad, so do like Bart said.

I know Doug(BucknEB) has a rear/side tank from his 76 in great shape with new sender units...im sure he would sell them.
disc swap in front...and go through the rear drums. probably need new shoes and adjusting(those are easy, even the front can be made to work decent)

I think i have a complete elec wiper kit i can sell. never converter vac to elec...but im sure the wiper shaft holes dont line up...so you'll have to drill new holes and run the wires.(i think broncomatt) just did one...not sure
77 built 306,Trickflow Cam/Alum Heads/dome pistons/10:1comp,nv3550,duff long arms,3.5" lift,family cage,protofab rear bumper,twin sticked, and 35KM2'sG.D.I.
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#6
I do have a rear and Aux. tank available. They were both cleaned and sending units (from JBG) replaced about 2-3 years ago. I may have ran about 5k miles of fuel through them. Make me an offer if ya want. Good luck with the repairs and welcome to the site.
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#7
yeah, the stock wiper holes are in different locations on the vacuum wipers than on the later electric wipers. it would be easiest to swap the entire windshield frame if using later year electric wipers.
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