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68 Bronco
Here is the one I got from Chuck in trade and gonna use any suggestions I should add too it?
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-P...ProductId=

As for exhaust that is something else I have to have installed so positioning would be fun to figure out till I have it installed.
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I would mount that in front of the radiator. In my experience the fan will never come on when at Hiway speeds and will cycle on and off in traffic if it is thermostatically controlled
it is thermostatically controlled. Definitely need a gauge on it on the trails. I used the same cooler on a S 10 Blazer with a LT1 and 342 gears without any heating issues. Normally ran at 160 degrees on the road and cycled on and off in the woods.
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FWIW- I am infamous for over-engineering EVERYTHING. My transmission cooling system routes fluid from the converter through both a temp sender (gauge) and 180* switch (electric fan) to the lower port on the radiator cooler (air control) then out through the top to two plate style heavy duty 11" aux coolers stacked atop one another under the passenger floor board cooled with a 10" electric fan. It then exits to a serviceable filter with check valve and back into the transmission. I use steel lines along the frame rail to and from the radiator to further aid in cooling.

This system keeps my transmission extremely happy and cool. My converter temps rarely exceed 180* which means my pan temps are likely 150* to 160*. This leaves plenty of buffer for long hill climbs with the converter unlocked.

One thing I failed to mention last night is to ensure you have some form of circuit override on the electric fan should you chose to mount it under the floor. You want to make sure you have a way to force the fan ON should the temperature switch fail. Further, if you end up crossing deep water, you will want a way to force the fan OFF to prevent damage. This can be done with a simple 3 way switch.

I am not implying you will need anything nearly as complex as my system.

Keep us posted on your progress. Looking forward to seeing your Bronco in action at NovRun.
'77 351w- Explorer EFI, 4R70W, 4-link, lockers, 4.56, 35" MT/Rs with a severe rock addiction.Confusedmokin:
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads.

[Image: sig2.jpg]
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Well just placed the order for the remaining brake lines I need and clips and a master to replace the basic one for now till I can get the 76 axle rebuilt and put in power brakes.

Still trying to figure out the best fuel line and routing as I will have long tube headers and a 23 gal tank.
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You can run the lines on top of the frame, facing outside or better yet inside the frame.


Attached Files Image(s)
   
[SIZE="2"]77 project bronco w/ 5.0 & c4, Sagi PS, 2 hard tops, eyebrow grill [/SIZE]
WANTED: auto column, gas tank, front/ rear seats
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I say run them inside the frame. Otherwise you are routing around the body mounts. Run hard lines just forward of the proportioning valve then switch to soft lines to the engine. This is similar to the BC Broncos setup which is super nice. Ensure you take the time to secure those lines every 18" to prevent fatigue and chafing. Also consider positioning your filter in an easily accessible location. Glad to hear you are making progress. Looking forward to seeing your Bronco! Please continue to keep us posted.
'77 351w- Explorer EFI, 4R70W, 4-link, lockers, 4.56, 35" MT/Rs with a severe rock addiction.Confusedmokin:
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads.

[Image: sig2.jpg]
Reply
Ok I guess I will be calling BC Bronco's tomorrow after I get done at school and place an order.

When I was talking with Delconick today he brought up I might have issues using the 77 auto steering collumn since I don't have Power steering any thoughts?

I am making slow progress started coating the engine with aircraft stripper and man that stuff works it will just take several coats got some primer and the black pearl metalic for the main color.
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Steering column shouldnt be a problem , but you have to get the correct steering ujoints to match everything together. As for break lines being that your on a budget. Just get a flare tool and a blended from the auto parts stores. All the auto parts stores sell the lines. That way make them the way you want at half the price.
68 Half cab
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Determine what steering joints you need and holler at Chuck. He may have some used ones in good shape at a better price.

Sent from my GS3 on Cyanogenmod with the older / better version of Tapatalk!
'77 351w- Explorer EFI, 4R70W, 4-link, lockers, 4.56, 35" MT/Rs with a severe rock addiction.Confusedmokin:
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads.

[Image: sig2.jpg]
Reply
Not sure how much brake line experience you have but snag an extra line to practice with. If you rent the flare kit make sure the ribs in the clamp are nit worn out or the line will slip. Also make sure you remove any coating from the end of the line that goes in the clamp. This will keep it from sliding.

Sent from my GS3 on Cyanogenmod with the older / better version of Tapatalk!
'77 351w- Explorer EFI, 4R70W, 4-link, lockers, 4.56, 35" MT/Rs with a severe rock addiction.Confusedmokin:
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads.

[Image: sig2.jpg]
Reply


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