68 Bronco

[wepuckett]

Well just got finished for the night, pulled the other head, valve cover, exhaust manifold off. Also managed to pull trans and transfer case using a 6x6 ratchet straps and floor jack. If I have time tomorrow before it gets dark I will pull the engine so all I have to do is repaint the other engine and get rid of the lime green on it put the valve covers on and then it will be time to put the engine in.

[wepuckett]

Well got the old engine out and picked up some ford blue paint to repaint it and get rid of the lime green it currently is. Once I get it cleaned up will get it painted and put in so it will be ready for when the trans comes back.

While I am waitting I was thinking about swaping out the D44 disc brake axle I have in the front. What will I need to throw it in and be able to roll it around as needed again once it is in? I have both sets of the radius control arm bushings and will order some new radius control arm bolts. Is there anything else?

[broncosbybart]

Original bolts will be fine. You will need a different steering linkage. The knuckles on the 76-77 axles were different. The swap it self is very easy. Plan on new brake lines, wheel bearings, and calipers while you have it apart. I can't leave anything well enough alone...

[wepuckett]

Original bolts will be fine. You will need a different steering linkage. The knuckles on the 76-77 axles were different. The swap it self is very easy. Plan on new brake lines, wheel bearings, and calipers while you have it apart. I can't leave anything well enough alone...

It is a complete axle out of a 76, gonna replace the entire brake system, but that probably won't happen for another month or two. I have the original inverted Y for the 76, know that isn't the best, is that usable for now or is there something else I need entirely? As for linkage if the inverted Y is usable for now, what are the recomended options when it is time to replace the problem child?

[Crawdad]

The Y is a good set up as long as you keep the susp lift below 2.5". If you keep it stock the Y is a great system. There is reasons why Ford went to that direction on the rest of its trucks/ broncos. In fact that's why Ford went with the Twin Beam susp later down the road. As I said, in stock form it's great, it gets its bad rap from increasing the susp.

As far as ur disc brakes, u will need a lot of parts to complete this. You will need a new disc/ drum distribution block, new brake lines, new MC, power booster, etc..... If you have a good working D44 drum I'd stick with it for the time being. It's very easy to rebuild and can handle tires a lil bigger than stock. Just some food for thought.

[wepuckett]

Ok change #1,135 and even got change 1,136 before I got back on the computer. Well was looking over the 66 frame I bought to see if it had brake hardware I could raid to save me on the D44 till I could go through it completely and it looks like someone has gone through the entire thing except the new brake lines and I even have some of those in the tubs that where waitting to be installed. So I will swipe the axle and put it under the 68 and it should solve my brakes my axle and my tie rod ends problem as the tie rods on the 68 are currently heald in place by someone previous wrapping wire around so they hold in place.

As for change 1,136 well the lift that is on the 66 turns out to be a 3.5 lift from Jeff's bronco graveyard made by Deaver as I called both of them tonight and it looks to be mostly there. So that will allow me to put a lift on the 68, I was gonna put a 2.5 and 1 BL but will go with the 3.5 and stew on the BL till I get caught up on things I need to do to get the 68 on the road.

So looks like I will have plenty of wrenching to do over the next few weeks gonna wait to drop the other engine in till I get all this lift and axle stuff situated. But will get it cleaned up and repainted from lime green to ford blue. So if anyone is in the area or just wants to wrench on one I can always use the help.

William

[wepuckett]

Ok began pulling the front end out got ds loose other than the tie rod ends and radius control arms. When I get home from school tomorrow I will focus on radius control arms and ps coil spring, as once those are out I can lower the front end down onto the axle dolly and can pull the brake line loose and get that tie rod loose and will roll it out from under neath. Will try to remember to get some pics tomorrow.

[wepuckett]

Ok got the front end out the tie rod wanted to be a little bit of a pain and so did the drivers side radius control arm. Gonna get the brake lines situated on the other axle before I put it in. Here are a few pics of it out, the old and new axle and of the lime green engine I will be repainting ford blue, even got one of the rear axle I will be swapping out once I have the front safely in there.

As for steel brake lines do you buy them pre bent or bend them yourself? If you bend them yourself is there anything special I will need? Is there one autoparts store's brake lines betther then others I have Oriely's, Autozone, Advanced, and Napa near me.

[Crawdad]

Soak those radius arm bolts holding those caps on. You dont want to break those bolts. Mark the caps and bolts to each arm, best to not mix up.

BC sells a brake line kit. It's pricey but after you add up all the parts and tools needed to replace lines you may have to spend $80-$100 for the BC Kit. BC kit is also SS, it's prebent and comes with extra items.

[wepuckett]

It wasn't the bolts that gave me an issue as once the cotter pins where out or the pry bar was on they came off, it was getting the arms out of the old bushings on the frame.

Well got the 68 front end off the axle dolly once I put some wheels back on it then got the front end off the 66 frame, and as suspected came out rather easy due to all the new bolts, once I have the brake lines to the center of the axle installed I will put it under the 68.

Are 66 and 68 rear ends interchangeable, I know the shocks on the 66 go towards the front of the bronco rather then the back?