Project "Big Country" - Front Bumper Fab

[broncosbybart]

No so fast. They might have some recommendations for spring rates, etc. Maybe take some measurements and run it through the 4 link calculator. The 4 link that was on the back of the trail rig I had worked well. Was very happy w/it. Hopefully you can get it dialed w/out too much hassle. I think you'll really like it when you get it set up.

[SC74]

No so fast. They might have some recommendations for spring rates, etc. Maybe take some measurements and run it through the 4 link calculator. The 4 link that was on the back of the trail rig I had worked well. Was very happy w/it. Hopefully you can get it dialed w/out too much hassle. I think you'll really like it when you get it set up.

A change in springs would be nice and easy - I'm keeping my fingers crossed still. I took all of the measurements tonight and ran it through the 4-link calc on pirate, but now all I have is a bunch of numbers I don't understand :banghead: It shows 131% of anti-squat and the lines on the diagram are crazy.

[blazinchuck]

maybe you should post on pirate to see what others can offer...or atleast on classic. some gdi guys might be able to help...but since they cant look and touch..not sure how well they can help.

[SC74]

maybe you should post on pirate to see what others can offer...or atleast on classic. some gdi guys might be able to help...but since they cant look and touch..not sure how well they can help.

Pirate ... don't feel like getting flamed for not knowing any better. The people that know way more than I do about the #'s get flamed so not going there.

Classic ... people have PM'd and offered to help and I've been back and forth with a few, but it's just like the GDI things... can't touch/feel to make the right recommendation. That's the very reason it's going to the shop so they can touch/feel and explore on it. I could spend weeks of work and frustration trying to adjust this/that per various blind recommendations ... the h*ll with it:cut:

Just ready to get the suspension right so I can start building the axles.

[SC74]

I've been piddling on the crawler some during the evenings and getting it ready for gears and lockers.

1. My rear 4 link has been giving me a fit with anti-squat and rise. By just putting it in gear it would raise the rear of the truck up and drop it by putting it in reverse. By power braking it I could get the rear to raise up aprox 12". It was like I had hydro on it - but I didn't want that effect! I bought my shocks "new" on ebay which was my first mistake. I discovered that my "new" shocks did not have any nitrogen in them and they are supposed to run 200 psi. I have a tank of nitrogen, but did not have a regulator that would go up to 200 psi and didn't want to spend the $100 on one to keep. I finally found one to borrow and got my shocks charged.

2. While finding a regulator to borrow, I pulled my old transmission pan off since the PO had welded a bung into it for the dip tube and it has leaked since I've had the bronco. His JB Weld + booger stick welding just wasn't enough to keep it from leaking I ordered a new B&M pan, but when I put it on I found out that the stock dip tube interfered with my exhaust since there is a brass adapter b/w the pan and tube that pushes it out another 3/4" and right into my exhaust. I considered trying to re-bend the stock tube but it would have taken a lot of modifying to work so I went ahead and got the lokar flexible trans tube. I was going to make my own but the costs of the parts was almost as much as the lokar. I got the lokar in and there is a hard aluminum 90 deg fitting between the flex line and pan - guess what - it hit the exhaust too! It was too much to try to re-bend and not enough fat on it to cut and re-flare the end, so I had to cut and re-weld the aluminum to shorten it. It was still very tight and still needed some tweaking to get by the exhaust, but it's finally installed onto the new pan.

[SC74]

3. Now that I have gas in my shocks and the bronco can move under its own power, I went to crank it and pull it out of the garage to check the antisquat/rise problems. The motor ran, but not well. It would hold a very rough idle and cut off when I tried to give it any throttle. It ran well before, so I knew it had to be something simple. It threw a code, but the light went off. Instead of counting flashes on the OBD-I, I drained my fuel cell and checked my fuel filters. The gas in the cell was from April when I took it to Charlotte so I put fresh gas in. The old gas didn't have that stale smell, but I know this ethanol gas will separate and cause issues. A few gallons of fresh gas and it's running well again upergrin:

[SC74]

4. Now that it's running, the gas in the shocks made a huge difference on the anti squat / rise problems I was having. It's still there, but not nearly as bad. I am going to adjust my upper bars up to see if that resolves the rest of the problems. I am still going to take my coilovers out and sell them to get some coin to spend on the gears and lockers. This weekend I plan on installing traditional coil springs in the rear. I've got the duff's lower mounts, duff's coils, and some coil towers that we cut off of an old frame. It will require re-routing the brake lines, but if I can get out of re-working the 4-link bars I will be a happy camper :bdent:

[chuzie]

WOW! You are busy. I don't know if I have the patience to fab a 4-link from scratch so good on ya for sticking with it in light of the squat issues. Can't wait to see this puppy in action.

[broncosbybart]

eh, just weld both of the axles up and bring it to URE!!!!!!!!!!! to quote chuck, "she'll run!"

[SC74]

Keith and I spent the better part of the day working on the rear four link changes. The coilovers are out and for sale now. I now have some duff coil springs in the rear. Everything is tacked up and needs to be final welded, but it sits level (with the new 3.5" front coils instead of the old 5.5"). The old 5.5" coils are now for sale too.

Here are some pics of how we modified a set of stock coil towers to work on the rear. We welded a piece on the bottom to take most of the vertical force, and then some angle on each side to help with the horizontal force. I used some duff lower retainers on the bottom, but the pads welded to the axle tube are warped from the heat during welding so I need to do some grinding/straightening there.