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like i said, check with wild horses...they have the heavy duty bearings with the contained tapper bearings...meaning its not two pieces. no race to install on the axle tube. its all contained on the shaft. plus they were the only ones that would send them ready to install. chuzie got some from jbg and it was a pain to install them, the collars were too tight or something.
77 built 306,Trickflow Cam/Alum Heads/dome pistons/10:1comp,nv3550,duff long arms,3.5" lift,family cage,protofab rear bumper,twin sticked, and 35KM2'sG.D.I.
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I checked and don't see those bearing Chuck.
'77 351w- Explorer EFI, 4R70W, 4-link, lockers, 4.56, 35" MT/Rs with a severe rock addiction.
mokin:
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I ran 28 spline with 33' forever in the '73. Never had an issue with the axles. Broke a few carriers until I switched to a 4 pinion Ford SVO traction lock and then never looked back.....until I got a good deal on a Detroit and 31 splines.
Chuck, if you were referring to the bearing retaining collar, did you heat it up first? I have put them in the oven and heated them up until the id was bigger than the axel and dropped them on. I have had to do tapered bearings the same was or use a torch. Good for removing them also.
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Under the truck yesterday while installing the new axles and messing with the e-brake cables. Saw where a couple of my u-joint caps had spun on the cv joint at the transfer case. I have this grease gun extension thing that I use to try and grease the u-joints but it still sucks. Anybody have any tricks? I guess dropping the driveshaft is the best way.
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How do you know they spun? Ade they marked or scratched?
You are better off removing the shaft. Using those stupid zerk fittings introduces contaminants to the bearings.
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'77 351w- Explorer EFI, 4R70W, 4-link, lockers, 4.56, 35" MT/Rs with a severe rock addiction.mokin:
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads.
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U-joint caps are a press fit. If they are loose enough to spin, it is time for a new drive shaft. I've never seen this happen at the CV end but that isn't to say that it's not possible. I remove the driveshafts to grease those, on a shaft that has them. When servicing a shaft I will use the non-greasable Spicer joints. They last a lot longer than a standard joint and are no maintenance.
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Chuzie, You can see a shiny ring around the outside of the cap where the small retaining tab is rubbing. I'll take a picture. I'll probably take it out sometime this weekend.
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You're talking about the two caps that are in the yoke on the output of the transfer case, right?
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