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Taurus Fan
#1
http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthr...taurus+fan

Please let me get some feedback!!!:biggthumpup:

Thanks for your time in advance!!!:notworthy:

Could I just wire this staight?

Wiring help also...ThanksConfusedmokin:
Waiting to build or BUY another legend! :thefinger:
Always an EB fan, lover and freak :notworthy:

1985 Yoda 4Runner :xyxthumbs:
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#2
This is a post I put on classic today!!!Confusedcratchhe:



I had my Ron Davis alum. Rad from WH's get ate up by my mech fan. It is my beleif that their fan shourd(ron davis) is a bad design because there is a 1/2" lip down the pass. side that is about one inch closer to the mech. fan than the rad. So in a recent hill climb at River Rock Ga. with alot of body flex and motor torque the mech. fan got into the afore mentioned lip and turn sideways and had lunch. About a $500 lunch!!!

So I found the alum. rad on this site from partstrain.com the "silla" rad got here in about two days and cost like $216.13 to my door.

But I was determined not to run a mech fan ever again!!!

So I read this thread and went to a pull your own junk yard. $21.35 got me a 95' Taurus fan from a 3.8L.

Anyway its too wide and won't clear my water pump pully.

I think my water pump has a longer "neck" than some I've seen and I had to do alot of spacing on my other pulleys to line up all pulleys with the crank pulley(which I think is sticking out alot also) anyway...blah blah blah.

So I took two ten inch fans and my old fan shroud and mounted them.

My temps were not very good at slow speeds idle/crawl 190-210 but sitting still at idle 160-180 and cruising 30-45mph it stayed between 160-190.

Well any feedback and or comments?

Thanks, John
Waiting to build or BUY another legend! :thefinger:
Always an EB fan, lover and freak :notworthy:

1985 Yoda 4Runner :xyxthumbs:
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#3
I hope to alter this Taurus fan ie. strip the shourd and make it fit because the cfm is alot more than the two 10" fans I installed.

[Image: th_jpwnewstuff005.jpg]

Here is my current set up...not as bling bling as before but purdy dang nice for the price!!!

[Image: th_jpwnewstuff001.jpg]
Waiting to build or BUY another legend! :thefinger:
Always an EB fan, lover and freak :notworthy:

1985 Yoda 4Runner :xyxthumbs:
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#4
I think my crank pulley is wrong...it caused me to have shim out the water pump pulley and alt and ps...hmmm
Waiting to build or BUY another legend! :thefinger:
Always an EB fan, lover and freak :notworthy:

1985 Yoda 4Runner :xyxthumbs:
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#5
is you belt aligned with all the accy pulleys?
'77 351w- Explorer EFI, 4R70W, 4-link, lockers, 4.56, 35" MT/Rs with a severe rock addiction.Confusedmokin:
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads.

[Image: sig2.jpg]
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#6
yeah it all lines up but I had to make it and do alot of "shimming" spacers ect.

are you comin to River Rock?
If so we will look at it...10-4
Waiting to build or BUY another legend! :thefinger:
Always an EB fan, lover and freak :notworthy:

1985 Yoda 4Runner :xyxthumbs:
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#7
just curious as to why you think that 190-210 is too hot? to get an efficient burn you need a temp of about 200* unless you are running a newer cpu controlled FI a carb engine needs to have higher cyl.temperatures in order to get a clean efficent burn of fuel and deposits. if you run it too cold especiallt at idle it will have more stumbling/overload issues. did you use relays on your electrical connections to the two ten inch fans? if not you arnt getting full potential. and if you strip the shroud the cfm's will drop unless you use something to concentrate the air as does the shroud
Eric. :rebel:
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#8
Badass Wrote:just curious as to why you think that 190-210 is too hot? to get an efficient burn you need a temp of about 200* unless you are running a newer cpu controlled FI a carb engine needs to have higher cyl.temperatures in order to get a clean efficent burn of fuel and deposits. if you run it too cold especiallt at idle it will have more stumbling/overload issues. did you use relays on your electrical connections to the two ten inch fans? if not you arnt getting full potential. and if you strip the shroud the cfm's will drop unless you use something to concentrate the air as does the shroud

what kinda relays?...how and where should I put them?

water boils at 210 correct?

I guess my temps aint bad...

before, now that you said it, I think I was too cool causing my "rich" running...hmmm
Waiting to build or BUY another legend! :thefinger:
Always an EB fan, lover and freak :notworthy:

1985 Yoda 4Runner :xyxthumbs:
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#9
Water boils at 212* at standard pressure. 1 atm.. Your cooling system runs 12 to 15 psi so the boiling point of water increases. As you increase the pressure of the system you also increase the boiling point. Thats why pressurize water reactors work. 2200psi plus or minus and 685* on the hot leg. Still it doesn't boil.
I wasn't aware of the need to run in the 190-210* range. I know our Yukon (GM products) all run in that range. I'll change my thermostat and see if that helps the performance any.

Thanks,

Tim
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#10
remember i am talking chevys temp wise but i cant imagine a difference in the temp of an efficent burn being different from engine to engine. also your not using water you hopefully are using coolant and that has a higher boiling point as well..

here is the headlight relay upgrade we talked about JP

http://www.wheelindixie.com/forums/showthread.php?t=56

and one on relays in general:

http://www.autoshop101.com/trainmodules/relays/113.html
Eric. :rebel:
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