Ford 6.0L intercooler install in '92-'96 body

[Traveler]

Just for Chuck.

I bought this intercooler a couple years ago now and finally getting it installed.

At the time it was the most efficient setup. Better cooling than the 7.3L coolers and supposedly as good as the Banks, or hypermax setup. Now they have the spearco intercooler that might be more efficient. Not sure.

There are a couple companies that make complete kits for this year truck. I don't know them all yet. Not even going to try and list them.

When I went in search of install articles I was very disappointed, Some write ups had okay instructions and poor pictures, then some had better pictures and little or no write up. There were some questions I just could not get clear answers too.
I will try to do a little better.

One thing I noticed on the different installs is that people seem to either be mounting them at different heights, or just not paying attention to where they are putting them. Maybe they just don't care.

This is of course on a 4x4, 2 wheel drives have a sway bar that has to be moved from what I have read.

I believe the 7.3L intercooler is also smaller and will eliminate that problem.
The 7.3L intercoolers came in two styles, early ones had plastic tanks that cracked over time. The aluminum ones were much better. Then came the 6.0L and it only had plastic tanks and from what I have heard has been holding up just fine.

I was worried about the tranny cooler mounting, from what I had read it was a nightmare, but really wasn't a big deal when it came down to it.

Some welding will be required to make the lower mounts. Beyond that a drill, and a sawzall is about the only tools you need over basic hand tools.

The entire photo album is here intercooler install

Before. You can see the location of the tranny cooler before the install.


Strip the front end. You need to remove everything. It isn't as hard as you think it is, just a pain to get to some of the screws.



Remove the lower AC condesor mounts.




Flatten them out.


Cut them



Re drill a hole in them. I went ahead and slotted it like it was before. Just quicker and easier to reinstall that way.




Reinstall them.



There are different versions of how to do the radiator/hood latch support. I took the original out of there and flattened it in a press.
I have seen other guys cut this off and weld a piece of strap in.



Reinstall. I had to cut about 1/2 inch off the botton, and re drill a new hole for it. The bottom is also now mounted inside the lip of the lower radiator support, instead of on the stud on the outside.


Start test fitting, trying to figure out where the tubes will stick through at.


Mark the holes where you need to cut. One thing I didn't see clearly mentioned in other writeups, you have to cut into the flanges on the radiator and lose the lower mounting holes. Moving them up a couple inches.
Not a big deal as the radiator is mounted securely at the bottom as well.

Rough marker outlines



Hack it out of there.





Test fit for any additional trimming.

[Traveler]

Start mounting it up. I first shimmed it in place. I set the lower mounts on 3/8 drive deep sockets seemed to be pretty close.
The upper mounts are vibration dampners I bought from Gringer, I have read where guys used old shock bushings. It is really the same thing.




Start building your lower mounts. I used a piece of 1.5" angle, 1" box tubing, and a piece of strap. Clamped it all together and welded it up.
There are other ways to build the lower mounts, I like this because it holds the intercooler tight and the mounting bolts are easy to access.



Tack it together and test fit it.


At this point I took it to the wash bay and cleaned everything up. Cleaning the radiator and condensor. Then I painted any bare metal to prevent rust. I also painted the frame horns.


Slip the boots on your intercooler. I used 2 3"x3" boots with constant torque clamps. You need to install the clamps now because there is no room to tighten them later.

The intercooler has what is now the outlet size of 3 1/4" There is a boot made just for that, but I did not have any trouble slipping the 3" boot over it.


Install it. You can see how the clamps are hidden. I had to remove it and turn one clamp a little so it wouldn't rub.




Last thing was the tranny cooler. I had seen where guys hung it off the header panel, bolted it to the bumper. I didn't like any of that. So I took a piece of 1" angle, cut it back a little and bent it to lay flat.
I drilled it so the bumper mounting bolts will hold it in place in stead of drilling new holes.




Placed the tranny cooler. I centered it, I thought it would look better than off to one side.
Bolted it up to the angles.


To hold the whole assembly in place while I installed the bumper, I used a pop rivet on the upper angle.


Re run all of your electrical and tranny cooler lines now.


I have seen the hood latch bent different ways. I simply bent the tab up just a little. It still looks factory.



I still had the rubber flap below the radiator. I reinstalled it. It helps direct air flow through the tranny cooler, intercooler and radiator. It also helps keep and mud from splashing up in there.
I had to trim it at the bottom to fit.



Start installing the front end sheet metal.
The header panel has this little tab that needs to be removed. Not sure why it was there.



Hopefully you have been checking and rechecking your clearances along the way. It is a tight fit.

[Traveler]

Finished product.


It is not a hard job, but it is time consuming.

I have not started on my piping at all yet. I will probably make my own pipes out of exhaust tubing.
You can get Later model pipes and cut them to fit.
There is also the "spider" they call it that needs to be purchased or made. It routes the air out to the intercooler instead of directly from the turbo into the intakes.

Expected results are hard to predict, it seems different for everyone. Maybe 200 degrees cooling is what I hope for, but as I understand it, the long pulls is where it really pays off and that is what we really need.

More to come.