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73 Bronco
#61
Pull starter and check out casting number on block.
'77 351w- Explorer EFI, 4R70W, 4-link, lockers, 4.56, 35" MT/Rs with a severe rock addiction.Confusedmokin:
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads.

[Image: sig2.jpg]
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#62
Thanks for the help was looking in the wrong place when I was told to look around the starter on the block found it imeadiatly. So here is the code I have
D8VE 6015 A3A 78 Lincoln Engine
7H6 built August 6 1977

Again thanks for the help, still unsure on size will have to get to that later but know that the smallest FE they built was a 331 most common was 352 and if it is a 360 it can easily be made a 390.

Thanks for telling me to look where the starter was I already had it out it was just underneatha lip and all the sites kept saying look in the front.
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#63
Ok spent the day tearing apart the body of one of the bronco's pulled the dash cover the dash boy are all those wires a pain. Also pulled the steering column and clutch brake assembly.
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#64
Save those leftover parts, I'll need some! Keep'em out of the elements too!
[SIZE="2"]77 project bronco w/ 5.0 & c4, Sagi PS, 2 hard tops, eyebrow grill [/SIZE]
WANTED: auto column, gas tank, front/ rear seats
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#65
I have everything I can out of the elements my basement is kinda full lol, once I get the engine off I will put the body on the frame and on the rotisserie and get it out of the elements. Doors I got plenty of some need repairs some are good. Front and rear ends got a couple of too. Everything is saved and safe.
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#66
Ok just a quick update got the mystery solved with the engine it is a 302 very clean under the valve covers, the ellusive bolt was a hex screw in the valve covers I did not notice originally. Have pics in my garage on classic under the 73 of how clean it is under the valve covers.
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#67
Ok got to a major halting point at least till the rain goes away. I got the engine off and onto the engine stand and pushed the frame and rotisserie outside.

Couple of questions
1. Do I need to pull brake lines and fuel lines from the frame before blasting?
2. How does everyone do the bolts of different things that bolt into the frame? Do you leave them out while blasting but put them back in before primering and painting or do you just leave them in but take the item off?

Ok next step I messed my self up for and delayed myself as I set the body that I won't be using down right on the ground or concrete in front of my spare frame that I am going to mount the spacers the rotisserie company sells to so I can work on the other body. So I need to get it cut apart or moved or partially cut apart and moved. Then swap the frames that are sitting on the rotisserie. Then I can put the other body on the rotisserie and begin cutting out floor pans.

Another question is size bolt is the bolt that bolts the door hinge to the body as all the doors where already off and if I have any of the bolts not sure which one's they are. Need to build some sort of bracing structure as when I first moved it off I manually moved it because it was just ballancing on a 6x6 and the trans.

Oh I will be picking up a new or new to me air compressor next weekit is a 11.8 cfm @90psi 3.5hp 60 gal tank, not sure if it will do everything I want but cfm is in the minimum range and got too good of a deal to pass up for now. So if it doesn't do everything I want sand blasting wise I might be listing again. Although I found a guy locally that does it for $75 an hour with a half day minimum so might not try sand blasting much other then small stuff if he does priming so it can be sealed up while it sits. What type of things should I know about the primer he uses? Or any other ?'s I should ask?
Thanks for the help and answers
William
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#68
For sand blasting, you'll want to remove everything you can from the frame. I recommend an epoxy primer and I've had good luck with southern polyurethanes.

For $75 an hour, I'd have him blast everything. I've got a good compressor and pressurized blaster and it is only good for doing little jobs. You'd be on social security by the time you'd be done.

If you want to do it quick and cheap buy a few $20 cup brushes for a 4.5" grinder and go to town.
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#69
broncosbybart Wrote:For sand blasting, you'll want to remove everything you can from the frame. I recommend an epoxy primer and I've had good luck with southern polyurethanes.

For $75 an hour, I'd have him blast everything. I've got a good compressor and pressurized blaster and it is only good for doing little jobs. You'd be on social security by the time you'd be done.

If you want to do it quick and cheap buy a few $20 cup brushes for a 4.5" grinder and go to town.

I am worried about price but not that much as I have plenty of work to do, more worried as I bring him out I have enough for him to do in a 4 hour time frame.

Ok so your saying if I get choice of brands use souther polyurethanes?

from what I have read his price sounds great sent him an email after talking with him on the phone and waiting on a response on weather priming and paining is part of his half day minimum or not. The other thing is he doesn't have a shop he would come out to my place and not sure what I would need to have set up for him to keep sand contained so it isn't all over the neighborhood.

If this guy works out I would really only be looking to sandblast stuff I couldn't group into enough stuff that would equal 4 hours or close to 4 hours worth of sand blasting.
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#70
Let him work on the tub as well. That'll keep him busy. The more you have someone else do, the better off you'll be. I'm sure you can have him use whatever paint you want, if you supply or pay for it. Good paint isn't cheap.
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