11-02-2012, 09:31 PM
(This post was last modified: 11-02-2012, 09:54 PM by broncosbybart.)
Well, I started taking some pictures tonight. I don't have pics of the removal, but can talk through it. The reason for starting this thread is that the first set of floor pans that I ever did took forever and could have been done much easier and better than the final result.
All early Broncos have the same front floor shape. The floor pans used here are the original ‘stamped’ style that Jeff’s Bronco Graveyard sells. They aren’t an exact copy of the original floors but look very close. The original floors attach somewhat differently than the aftermarket ones used here.
To start out, several tools will be needed. At a minimum, you’ll need all the tools to remove the interior of the truck, a few 4-1/2” angle grinders, a compressor, an air chisel and bits, drills and self drilling screws, a 3” whiz wheel (pneumatic cutoff tool), and a welder (I prefer MIG). If you don’t have these tools, you will most definitely need them, along with proper safety and respiratory equipment.
The first thing you need to do is to remove the entire front have of the interior. This includes the dash, pedals, steering column, heater box, front seats, and doors (for ease of work). Once that is done, you are ready to begin!!
Both floor boards are installed from the factory using spot welds. These welds average approx. 3/8” in diameter and are a few inches apart. With the age of these trucks, it is always possible to run into a hackjob of a floor pan install by someone else. That is how this truck was. The driver’s side was original but had a patch panel welded over the front portion of it. The passenger side was completely replaced using flat steel and plate over top of half of the original floor.
To do it right, I recommend removing the original floors, rather than simply throwing on another layer. The removal of the originals is the hardest part. The driver’s side is smaller, so let’s begin there. A 4-1/2” grinder will be needed for this along with some ¼” thick grinding discs and some thin .040” or similar cutting wheels. I have found that using a spot weld cutter is a huge mistake. The reason is that you will have to spend A LOT of time drilling large holes through the existing flooring and cross members. They will end up looking like Swiss cheese by the time you are done!
So, take the grinder and a thin cutting disc and begin removing what you can. Huge word of warning- there is 1 cross member under the driver’s floor pan. DO NOT cut through it! Oh, and also- if you have an auxiliary fuel tank, you will need to remove it. I also recommend disconnecting removing the rear tank line as a precaution as well. Now, I recommend going from the underside of the vehicle and making some small cuts along each side of the cross member, just to mark where it is. You can then crawl back out and cut around the cross member from the top. From under the vehicle, everything will look like this.
![[Image: FloorPans032.jpg]](http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy147/broncosbybart/Mellow%20Yellow/FloorPans032.jpg)
You want to leave the cross member intact, along with an edge along the outside and rear to be able to weld the new floor to.
Next, cut the rear section of the floor out. Be sure to follow the ‘edge’ of the original inner rocker panel. There should be about a ½” lip that you want to follow. You don’t want to cut entirely to the edge of the floor. Do the same thing for around the rearmost portion of the floor. The section along the transmission tunnel can be cut right at the crease.
All early Broncos have the same front floor shape. The floor pans used here are the original ‘stamped’ style that Jeff’s Bronco Graveyard sells. They aren’t an exact copy of the original floors but look very close. The original floors attach somewhat differently than the aftermarket ones used here.
To start out, several tools will be needed. At a minimum, you’ll need all the tools to remove the interior of the truck, a few 4-1/2” angle grinders, a compressor, an air chisel and bits, drills and self drilling screws, a 3” whiz wheel (pneumatic cutoff tool), and a welder (I prefer MIG). If you don’t have these tools, you will most definitely need them, along with proper safety and respiratory equipment.
The first thing you need to do is to remove the entire front have of the interior. This includes the dash, pedals, steering column, heater box, front seats, and doors (for ease of work). Once that is done, you are ready to begin!!
Both floor boards are installed from the factory using spot welds. These welds average approx. 3/8” in diameter and are a few inches apart. With the age of these trucks, it is always possible to run into a hackjob of a floor pan install by someone else. That is how this truck was. The driver’s side was original but had a patch panel welded over the front portion of it. The passenger side was completely replaced using flat steel and plate over top of half of the original floor.
To do it right, I recommend removing the original floors, rather than simply throwing on another layer. The removal of the originals is the hardest part. The driver’s side is smaller, so let’s begin there. A 4-1/2” grinder will be needed for this along with some ¼” thick grinding discs and some thin .040” or similar cutting wheels. I have found that using a spot weld cutter is a huge mistake. The reason is that you will have to spend A LOT of time drilling large holes through the existing flooring and cross members. They will end up looking like Swiss cheese by the time you are done!
So, take the grinder and a thin cutting disc and begin removing what you can. Huge word of warning- there is 1 cross member under the driver’s floor pan. DO NOT cut through it! Oh, and also- if you have an auxiliary fuel tank, you will need to remove it. I also recommend disconnecting removing the rear tank line as a precaution as well. Now, I recommend going from the underside of the vehicle and making some small cuts along each side of the cross member, just to mark where it is. You can then crawl back out and cut around the cross member from the top. From under the vehicle, everything will look like this.
You want to leave the cross member intact, along with an edge along the outside and rear to be able to weld the new floor to.
Next, cut the rear section of the floor out. Be sure to follow the ‘edge’ of the original inner rocker panel. There should be about a ½” lip that you want to follow. You don’t want to cut entirely to the edge of the floor. Do the same thing for around the rearmost portion of the floor. The section along the transmission tunnel can be cut right at the crease.