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Okay, so since I've been running the bronco, I'm having trouble getting it started after it's gotten hot and been ran for a while. It will turn over slowly (very slowly, like it's struggling), but not fire up. Once it sits for a while (not sure the exact amount of time, I know over night takes care of it) it will fire up right away.
Now, the bronco is currently cooling off in a parking lot while I mow the grass, but here's what I do know.
1. I know it's not the starter, thought that, but I just but a brand new remand in today, thinking that was the problem....it isn't.
2. I don't think it's anything inbetween the battery and the starter, I used jumper cables to go from the battery straight to the starter, same results (yes I did have the key in the on position).
3. I don't think it's the battery since a. it will start with no problem after it cools off and b. I nice lady tried to help me jump start it, and I got the same results.
Now, one guy who came by thought I might have the timing too advanced, which would explain why nothing else is showing problems, but I've been running this timing for 2 years now, and never had this problem before. The engine only has around 40k on it (remand Groom's engine).
Any thoughts, I'm going to mess with the timing when I get home, but any other thoughts would be helpful!
Thanks,
MoMo
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This just started happening recently?
You could be boiling fuel flooding the engine when I stops. May have to run an insulated spacer to keep the carb cooler.
Also how is the engine grounded to the frame? Is it near the battery ground. A quick check would be to do a voltage drop test. Check voltage across the battery, should be 12-12.5 Volts. Then leave the + lead on the battery and check at the frame end of the cable. Next work you way to the starter. I'd try it cold first then get it good and hot and try. You shouldn't loose more than a .5 volt anywhere.
'72 TBA...
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09-07-2008, 08:39 PM
(This post was last modified: 09-07-2008, 09:16 PM by chuzie.)
I think you are boiling the fuel. Exactly the problem I had back in my carb days. Are you sure your dizzy is not lose and the timing out of whack? That shouldn't matter since you would experience issues on hot and cold starts. My bets are on the carb.
'77 351w- Explorer EFI, 4R70W, 4-link, lockers, 4.56, 35" MT/Rs with a severe rock addiction. mokin:
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads.
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I'm sorry guys. I hate it when guys do this, and now I'm just as guilty.
The stats: this is an efi, in case it matters, it has GT-40P heads, a RV comp cam, and Shorty Headers. Also, a Red Top Optima battery.
You know, the more I think about it, and seeing others post, I am wondering if it's the ground to the block. I am terrible at electronics, but it would make sense, since it runs right past the header, I had to replace it once before after it melted on the headers, and running from the battery straight to the starter (bypassing the solenoid and all wires inbetween) didn't make a difference.
It's too late to check now, as I'm already cleaned up, I'll check it this weekend.
If anyone has any other ideas, I'd love to hear them!
Thanks everyone!
MoMo
P.S. I got it home, started right up after about 4 hours.
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Sounds like hot soak. If the carb gets hot some fuel can drip into the intake. The timing can be changed some to help with this. Some insulation on the fuel lines(especialy near the fuel pump) can help with that too.
Broncomatt
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smooth Wrote:I'm sorry guys. I hate it when guys do this, and now I'm just as guilty.
The stats: this is an efi, in case it matters, it has GT-40P heads, a RV comp cam, and Shorty Headers. Also, a Red Top Optima battery.
You know, the more I think about it, and seeing others post, I am wondering if it's the ground to the block. I am terrible at electronics, but it would make sense, since it runs right past the header, I had to replace it once before after it melted on the headers, and running from the battery straight to the starter (bypassing the solenoid and all wires inbetween) didn't make a difference.
It's too late to check now, as I'm already cleaned up, I'll check it this weekend.
If anyone has any other ideas, I'd love to hear them!
Thanks everyone!
MoMo
P.S. I got it home, started right up after about 4 hours.
I had similar trouble with a Mustang. It was carbed, ran a fixed distributor, and had almost 12:1 comperssion with the battery relocated to the rear. It would fire fine cold, but if you drive to town it would have to sit for a while before it would turn over fast enough to fire off. I ran a wide braided ground strap from the block to the frame that fixed my troubles. Last resort would have been to run a 00 guage wire from the battery to the block.
'72 TBA...
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Well, since you are EFI I would pull the codes from the computer even though I doubt they will be of any help unless you have a bad snesor or something off the chart.
Have you changed your configuration lately such that your fuel line may be in a HOT area causing vapor lock? HAve you removed all the emmissions components in the system?
When you crank it do you notice if the other electrical components are dimming or straining? Just trying to eliminate a HOT battery issue as well even though you already tried jumping it.
'77 351w- Explorer EFI, 4R70W, 4-link, lockers, 4.56, 35" MT/Rs with a severe rock addiction.mokin:
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads.
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Ground that beast,then since it's EFI check your Dist.out!As far as timing goes you could have a bad module and/or stator (stater not starter)! Both my trucks did this and both times it was the Dist.!Just my 2 cents! Hope it helps Peace JC aka Wildthang and Da War Wagon :popc1::rebel:
(Old age and treachery,Will always overcome youth and skill!):rebel:
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Check the battery ground and make sure the engine and chasis have a good connection. It may help to ground directly to an engine bolt. Just a thought. WR Thompkins
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Sorry for writing this and then checking out, I'm finishing up school and just have been stupid busy.
I ended up getting the IAC adjuster block from the Stealership ($63) and it took care of it. I had tried replacing the IAC, the EGR, and check the volt output on the TPS and nothing fixed it. Put the block on and spent a little time dialing it in, and now it works great. I love not having to two-foot drive anymore!!
MoMo
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