Replacing a lub bolt stud on rotor

[Crawdad]

I found it easy to replace the disc brakes on my lil 2wd 99 ford ranger, but my 76 bronco looks a lil more of a daunting task. All I want to do is replace some studs in my passenger front wheel (one is cut and two are wiggling). Anyone have any helpful tips, step-by-steps instructions, etc that can help me get thru this. I'm gonna check Classic and do a search and see what I come up with.

[blazinchuck]

it shouldnt be too hard of a job.

jack up,support stands...

remove wheel, brake caliper...

remove locking hub/snap rings, spindle bearing lock nuts...

slide hub off, keeping the outer bearing from falling out. the inner is captured with seal.

the studs should hammer out or press out...then start new studs with light tapping, might even try "pulling studs on" with a lug nut...repeat on other studs.


once you get the hub/rotor off...you see how it works

[Crawdad]

Thx Chuck, I'll post some pics as I go. Should I pack anything w/ wheel bearing grease or just leave all alone?

As far as spindle nut, does it require a certain torque, 10ftlbs, 12ftlbs, etc. or just snug? I think I have a spindle nut socket wrench, gotta look around.

[blazinchuck]

i think everyone does it a little different way than one another. there should be a procedure
in the shop manual. i usually run the 1st nut down to set the preload while spinning the rotor. i like so the rotor turns kinda hard(once a tire is on, it turns easier because of leverage)

then install the that lock coller(with holes), the inner nut should a have a small pin that stick out toward locking hub. that is what the lock coller lines up with, then the outer nut tightens against that to hold it. again...there is a torque spec, i just dont know what it is.

if bearings look good and plenty of grease...reuse them. if the grease looks really old and dry...wash the bearings clean, and repack

[blazinchuck]

you'll need this for the nuts

[SC74]

I always use a junked lug nut to put on the lug and beat on it to get it out.

Then to get the new one back in use a nut to pull it through after you tap it in. You may need some washers or larger nuts to use as washers to pull it all the way through.

I'm with Chuck on tightening the first spindle nut enough that the wheel still spins, but not freely. Then I just snug the outer to it (with the lock washer in the middle).

[broncosbybart]

While you are there it would probably be a good idea to clean and repack the hub bearings. IF you would have been here for the wrenching day, you could have seen the whole process and seen studs installed... But no, you had to work

J/K. If you do decide to repack the bearings, you'll need a new hub seal. I prefer to press the studs in with a press vs tightening them down. They usually don't go all the way in when they are tightened down, though that method works. Just my 2 cents. As far as wheel bearings go, I tighten the inner spindle nut till it is pretty tight and there is a lot of resistance, and then back it off about 1/8 of a turn. I don't go 1/4 turn. You will feel it spin more freely if you are spinning the rotor while you loosen the spindle nut.

[Crawdad]

Thx guys! I have a new rebuild kit for front and rear when I change gears. I prolly wont do that till I get back next summer. A C4 + 4.56s + 33s = high rpms so I will wait a while till I find a 4 spd tranny. I doubt I will drive it very much before I leave so I will re-use whatever falls out. If I come across a bearing (w/o having to ruin a seal) I will repack it. I may use the press at Drill next weekend, unless I find one sooner.

So the inner nut 50 ftlb, back off 45-90 degrees. Then 160-205 on outer locknut w/o backing off. Then the two steps for the adjusting nut. I'll play with it tomorrow.

[JayT]

While you are there it would probably be a good idea to clean and repack the hub bearings. IF you would have been here for the wrenching day, you could have seen the whole process and seen studs installed... But no, you had to work

J/K. If you do decide to repack the bearings, you'll need a new hub seal. I prefer to press the studs in with a press vs tightening them down. They usually don't go all the way in when they are tightened down, though that method works. Just my 2 cents. As far as wheel bearings go, I tighten the inner spindle nut till it is pretty tight and there is a lot of resistance, and then back it off about 1/8 of a turn. I don't go 1/4 turn. You will feel it spin more freely if you are spinning the rotor while you loosen the spindle nut.

I never thought i'd see the day, where Bart's instructions EXCLUDED "Never-Seez"!!!! I think I'm about to pass out. :hysterical:

[broncosbybart]

You kiddin me? Never-seez is a given! upergrin: