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Ms Piggy. Black and Blue!
thats looking great bart, the welds look awesome too
77 built 306,Trickflow Cam/Alum Heads/dome pistons/10:1comp,nv3550,duff long arms,3.5" lift,family cage,protofab rear bumper,twin sticked, and 35KM2'sG.D.I.
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Been plugging away with stuff. Got the chassis aligned and tightened up all the suspension parts. Painted the revised trans cross member and installed the drive shafts.

The fuel lines are plumbed. They are aluminum and are secured with insulated rubber clamps. While at it, I finished the brake lines, using all stainless hard line and braided stainless flex lines. Ran the hose for the rear ARB and set the rear body wiring harness into place.

Found that my reverse light switch on the trans was no good. A Dodge one is close to $70. The GM version is clocked a little different but works the same and is only about $15. Got that ordered and had to rig up a pigtail. Turns out a 2 prong weatherpack connector fits perfect!

Next up was the exhaust manifold and turbo. Had to modify the turbo drain line to make it line up with the fitting on the engine, as I am trying to use a different exhaust manifold. Then I set the body back down to check everything out. Of course it won't fit... The down pipe for the exhaust will be right against the firewall. Time to do some more figuring...


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Jumped around a little and am working on the interior and dash layout. The dash will have AutoMeter ultralite gauges. There will be a speedometer, voltmeter, fuel gauge, water temp, boost, pyrometer (exhaust temp), and oil pressure. It was a handful to stuff in the dash but having the radio in the center console will help add some room.

I started out with a later model dash (74) so I could use the dash lights because I like them and trying to cut holes for them in my existing dash would be a pain. The dash is laid out now with a speaker grille on each end. The ash tray was removed and the glove box brought inboard. The radio hole was deleted as was the original speedometer hole. A bit of work with some filler metal and the welder got it all fixed back up. Finishing touches were done with the hole saw, deburring tool, and flap disc. The blinker indicator and high beam LED's are on order- that is about the only thing left to do.

I am at a cross roads with the ARB switches and accessory switches. Not sure of where to locate them. I want to be able to reach them while strapped in. Got to give that some thought. Any input is welcomed.


Since I had the cutting wheels and all out, I modified the newer grille to replicate the original 67 grille turn signals. This grille was in better shape and the turn signal mod takes time, but isn't very hard once things are this far apart. I did use the welder and dremel to fill the holes in the grille left by the original blinker housings.


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might could recess the passenger floorboard a few inches to clear the downpipe. If you moved the whole floor in on that side, I doubt anyone would notice.

I would put the switches in a console. Atleast the main power/kill and ignition/fan. Put the switches that you may need to get to while strapped in close to you. The others (lights, acc, etc.) can got in the dash above the gauges. I would build a lockable center console to hold the switches, radio, and CB; similar to Tuffy. Have the cover swing out of the way & latch for when youre on the trails, but you can close it and lock it for driving around town.

I have a friend that built an overhead console for his switches. It looks like a CB hanging overhead above the mirror. I believe he even fished the lines through the tubing to keep it clean.
Ben...........Big Dixie Boggers........www.MudProMetalworks.com
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I deleted my pics and re-loaded them. For some reason the thumbnails aren't showing up but do work if they are clicked on.

Ben, thanks for the post. I guess I forgot to mention that it will have a Tuffy stereo console in it. I toyed with the idea of trying to put the switches in it but can't figure a good way to do it. I agree that it would be the best spot for them. All my switches in the racer are between the seats and it works great like that.

I started modifying the trans tunnel. There won't be enough room for the heater box with the right side completely modified. It all fits together very tightly. Here are a few pics of what I'm working on. The tunnel is cut about half way up and the lower portion will be angled in toward the passenger compartment to add some extra room underneath for the downpipe. I have to finish closing it in with sheet metal as well as fixing the holes in the top of the trans tunnel and figuring out the openings for the transfer case shifters.

While doing all that, I figured it would be a good time to cut the excess off the new heater core inlet/outlet tubes and use my flaring tool to give them a little lip on the end. Then I sealed and assembled the heater core box for good. It is done and fully rebuilt/sealed. One more thing accomplished!


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Got the under side of the tub all done. I had to modify the floor pan on the pass side to make room for the exhaust downpipe. Then I fixed the hacked up cross members and trans tunnel. Then came fitting the shifter for the Atlas 4 speed range box and then finally the twin sticks. I ended up using some 1/2 stainless round stock for the shifter levers on the twin sticks and welded it all up. They are embedded about 1/2" into the lower square portion of the arms.

Finally came fabbing up a cover for the shifters/trans tunnel. Still have to mount the shifter boots but that is minor.

Body is back down and I got the steering col mocked up and cut the lower shaft to length. Next up is the intercooler and radiator mounting and plumbing.


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Ok, now that the site is back up and running, I'm going to update this a bit.

The plan was to use a pair of Corbeau Baja Ultra seats. They are non-reclining and are pretty wide. Tight fit in the EB. There is an attached pic of the interior with one of those seats mocked up. I decided to sell them and bought a new pair of Mastercraft Sahara reclining seats. Those seats are similar to their popular Baja RS but cost just a bit more than half the price.

The bummer with the Sahara seat is that no options are offered. So, I tore apart a brand new set of seats to add a set of heaters and while there, I added Corbeau lumbar supports. The seats weren't too hard to tear apart or reassemble.


Now I am working on the brakes and clutch master cylinder. The inner fenders and the injection pump on the engine make everything a tight fit. Had to modify the 'no modify' Duff's booster bracket to fit around the injection pump. Plenty left to do yet but you guys have got me motivated once again. Guess I'm going to have to remember how to weld- it's been too long.


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So you actually went with seat heat. Is it just seat or back too?

Sent from my GS3 on Cyanogenmod with the older / better version of Tapatalk!
'77 351w- Explorer EFI, 4R70W, 4-link, lockers, 4.56, 35" MT/Rs with a severe rock addiction.Confusedmokin:
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads.

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damn nice, im curious too on the heated seats
77 built 306,Trickflow Cam/Alum Heads/dome pistons/10:1comp,nv3550,duff long arms,3.5" lift,family cage,protofab rear bumper,twin sticked, and 35KM2'sG.D.I.
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Nice work. keep it up and you'll be driving it at the Novrun.
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