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Ok. The new MC is installed and still having similar issues. The rears are adjusted all the way out to the point where I cannot use the adjuster tool anymore because it is so tight.
Bench bled the MC, connected the rears to the large rear port and the fronts to the smaller front port.
Bled all four wheels twice.
In 2WD (rear only) the rears take most of the pedal travel I have available to stop and it is not immediate. They will still spin with full brake force applied when powerbraking.
In 2WD (front only) the fronts take about half the available pedal travel to stop. It is a decent stopping motion but still move under full braking force when powerbraking.
Both the front and rear will skip once when I put them into gear with the brakes applied.
Are we sure that the plumbing connections for this MC (69 El Dorado) are correct as mentioned above?
I am at a loss here 
'77 351w- Explorer EFI, 4R70W, 4-link, lockers, 4.56, 35" MT/Rs with a severe rock addiction. mokin:
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads.
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Only thing you have not changed is the hard lines. Wonder if there is rust or debris in the like to the rear?
'72 TBA...
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lines and rear cylinders. i bet i could replace it all and still have the same problem.
'77 351w- Explorer EFI, 4R70W, 4-link, lockers, 4.56, 35" MT/Rs with a severe rock addiction.mokin:
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads.
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chuzie Wrote:lines and rear cylinders. i bet i could replace it all and still have the same problem.
Now thats the spirit ... dang this is not rocket science ... lets get this purdy yellow banana STOPPING :banghead:
:popc1:
Come on there has to be something simple we all are overlooking cratchhe:
Waiting to build or BUY another legend! :thefinger:
Always an EB fan, lover and freak :notworthy:
1985 Yoda 4Runner :xyxthumbs:
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ya, a 5 gallon gas can and a match
'77 351w- Explorer EFI, 4R70W, 4-link, lockers, 4.56, 35" MT/Rs with a severe rock addiction.mokin:
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads.
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C'mon chuzie keep your head up bro ... we will get this figured out ... if I can stop on a dime with no power brakes and all four drums I know we can get yours to STOP :biggthumpup:
Waiting to build or BUY another legend! :thefinger:
Always an EB fan, lover and freak :notworthy:
1985 Yoda 4Runner :xyxthumbs:
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Dont rely on the powerbraking action as a sign that its not working. Ultimetly you can overpower mechanical force with horespower. Its realy more for diagnosing which is braking first.
With the rear jacked up can you spin the rear wheels by hand at all? Since you moved the adjuster all the way out you should not be able too. If the adjust is bottomed out and the wheels can still be moved you have something assembled wrong in the drums.
Bleeding twice is probably not enough, when I change masters here its sometimes 2 or 3 times untill I'm happy with the pedal. Did you use the clear hose too see the color of the fluid (no bubbles too)?
You can give me call tonight, I'll be around.
broncomatt
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Ok. Back to my brake problem....
The rears take some effort to turn by hand. They will turn by hand but not spin on their own.
I re-bled the system. No air noted.
Two things I noticed: The pin on the front on the proportioning valve ( the one you are supposed to pull when bleeding the front) is extended already. A few weeks ago I do remember being able to pull it out for bleeding and not it will not retract. I am not sure if that is an issue I think that just says there is pressure going to the fronts right off the bat instead of slight after the rears.
Also, when bleeding, the rears seem to be easier to bleed than the fronts. It takes more pedal effort to bleed the fronts.
Other than that, the rears do not spin when placed in gear and the pedal is applied however, the fronts do. Again, this is in FWD only and RWD only modes.
'77 351w- Explorer EFI, 4R70W, 4-link, lockers, 4.56, 35" MT/Rs with a severe rock addiction.mokin:
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads.
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'"The pin on the front on the proportioning valve ( the one you are supposed to pull when bleeding the front) is extended already "
There is no pin that should be pulled when bleeding the brakes?
It sounds like the rear is dialed in, something sounds off on the front. Elaborate on your brake bleeding procedure.
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The bronco tech manual states the pin on the prop valve should be pulled when bleeding the brakes to allow fluid to the front calipers without a pressure load.
Procedure....
Top off reservoir.
Start at RR
Install clear bleeder hose and place fluid catch above valve level.
Loosen valve 1/4 turn.
Pump brake pedal slowly until no air present in bleeder hose.
Tighten valve.
Remove bleeder hose and fluid catch.
Drain fluid catch.
Refill reservoir.
Repeat on LR-RF-LF
Repeat process 3 add'l times starting with RR
'77 351w- Explorer EFI, 4R70W, 4-link, lockers, 4.56, 35" MT/Rs with a severe rock addiction.mokin:
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads.
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