Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
ok, this is the last truck I will ever buy. Really.
#41
I am inspired to build the 200cid motor that came with the bronco. The carb I am using is for that specific engine and I would like to play with this motor some to make some HP but still keep the MPG. Only time will tell. Overall its fun to drive and I will be tuning it more as I get to drive it. Still have lots to do, need to make a center console, wire up and mount the radio, the cb and figure out a way to make the coolent guage work (no place for a sender other than the heater hose).
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Reply
#42
what a transformation! glad another one got a new lease on life. looks like you are beginning to see the light at the end of the tunnel for getting it on the road.
Reply
#43
the old 200 i had in my 69 had a place on the rear of the engine for temp sensor. i still have the block lying around i will snap a pic of it tomorrow.
If you can't fix it with a hammer and a welder then your gonna need a new one!
Reply
#44
Looks great mat.
68 Half cab
Reply
#45
Looks great Matt - can't believe you have done it all yourself in such a short time frame. Keep up the hard work!!
'74 Grocery Getter, '73 Project Buggy, '77 Parts Rig

[Image: Bannerpic.jpg]
Reply
#46
Thanks for the heads up on the coolent sensor location, I will have to check the back of the head for a spot.
So I go out too the shop first thing this morning and find a large puddle of gear oil under the drivers front tire and a small spot of coolent under the rad. I knew the axle seals had been leaking but WTF! I put a zip ties on the axle shafts to keep the diff from spinning and possibly damaging something. I will have to order some seals and plan on tearing it down in the next few weeks.
The front crank seal had been leaking so I have already ordered a new seal and will pull the rad and do the seal at the same time. The rad leak seemed to be a small leak that had already been jb welded. Will have to see once I get it out. I'm hoping to just change the crank seal with out pulling the cover off. Its not leaking any place else and I already did the oil pan. I will aslo put a new tstat in while I'm there.
I'm also hoping the turnsignal switch shows up tomorrow.
The fuel gauge doesnt work either, but it already has a new sender and my spare guages are already in FLA so that will have to wait. I may also drop the drivers seat another inch, I would have to set the the lumbar angle and leave it but I already know how I like it. Its an easy drop.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Reply
#47
Progress report, after a second test drive the fuel pump quit. So I towed it home and this weekend I swapped the fuel pump (had to weld a nut on the broken bolt where I tried to put a fuel pump for a 200 6cy on, they dont fit). Plus new fuel filter.
Pulled the guage cluster down and check the voltage on the back. All was right so for the fun I ran the wires to my spare and it worked. So I swapped the fuel guage by itself and all is good. The one that came out was full of mud. Furthering my thoughts that early in its life it was flooded.
I also changed the turnsignal switch out. The horn terminals had been broken, after changing it I had to work on the horn button some. After some creative ideas it works.
I still need to trim the frame ends so I can mount the bumper, clean up the wiper lincage and some new blades, the dana 30 needs new axle seals. Plus I think I will drop the drivers seat some more, I think it will go down another inch or two.
Some ideas I need help with, anybody know where the stock coolent temp sensor goes on the 1706cyl?
Also looking for a way to tighten up the play in the spare tire rack, the holes are worn and it causes it rattle.
Ideas, anyone, anyone...
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Reply
#48
I have drove this truck for a few weeks and I have learned a few things. I need a new drive shaft (its an extra I had laying around) since the lift is putting it to the max and causing some vibration.
My big problem is its not getting MPG I need to get out of it. At best its getting 13 in trafic and 15hw. Plus its a nutless wonder. I know part of the problem is it has 410 gears with 31" tires. It not helping that the carb is for the 200 6cyl and the exhaust is OE. Plus the air cleaner is ment for a v8.
I looked into a web site for making hp from a 6cyl, so know I have a few choices.
1 Changed gears to 350 (rears used would be $70 shipped) or I would gladly swap if anybody wants 410s for there ride.
2 Put larger tires (I have 31"s so up to 33") $800 (dont have:bangheadSmile
3 4spd trans or overdrive $$$$$$
If nothing else I could rebuild the 200 6cyl I have (still dont have $$$$)

SO does anybody know where I can get the carb adaptor too fit the 1bl too the 2bbl? I saw it on the 6cyl forum but cant seem to find them.
Or, know were I can get a stock carb for the 170 (used or new) but I need it to have a electric choke. I have one for the manual choke but it needs overhaul, I may try that but I havent found a rebuild kit for it and since its not a true stock carb(dont realy know what its off).
I have know money so ideas, suggestions and info on how to build hp and mpg out of a 6 would be intersting.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Reply
#49
dang matt, sorry to hear bout the issues. i know getting some HP out of a 6cyl will always cost money. making them flow better and oil better(ie. heads,crank,valves,etc) will cost time and money. you can always make the exhaust better yourself, but that will cost whatever the parts are(ie. prebent parts,muffler,header) i used to have a 1bbl to 2bbl adapter...but im sure it wont work as it was for my chevy 250 6cyl i once had years ago. maybe you can get a wide band O2 sensor installed so you can read rich/lean and tune the carb better.

is the intake built for a 1bbl or 2bbl? i thought a stock intake would be 1bbl. if its running rich, im sure there are tricks to getting more air in the carb...been a long time since fooling with a 6cyl. as for the gears, i would look hard for some 33" tires...dont give up the 4.10's. you not gonna get any serious HP out of that with out major money. also make sure the drums arent too tight...i know i had to back mine off a lil just so the car rolled alot easier. those MPG numbers arent that bad...thats what im getting. Im sure you can do better. are ya on the fordsix site? im sure they can offer better/improving info there too.

also, there is a wide ratio 4 sp...kinda like a np435, but its 1st was normal and 4th was a OD. that might be a cheaper option, not easily found...but less expensive than a true over drive trans like myself. good luck buddy
77 built 306,Trickflow Cam/Alum Heads/dome pistons/10:1comp,nv3550,duff long arms,3.5" lift,family cage,protofab rear bumper,twin sticked, and 35KM2'sG.D.I.
Reply
#50
also, which holes are you talking bout on the spare tire rack?
77 built 306,Trickflow Cam/Alum Heads/dome pistons/10:1comp,nv3550,duff long arms,3.5" lift,family cage,protofab rear bumper,twin sticked, and 35KM2'sG.D.I.
Reply


Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 6 Guest(s)