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URE Fall Run 2012?
#21
chuzie Wrote:Army proof!

:hysterical::hysterical::hysterical:
My Build Thread-
http://www.carolinabroncos.com/forums/sh...php?t=3919

You're gonna have to be more specific... 11/12/11
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#22
GOODOLEBOY84 Wrote:im pretty sure jpg 5.0 was the newer 50 oz engine, pretty much if it has a one peice rear main seal then its the 50 oz from what ive seen just throwin
this out there.

cant be roller if it wasnt drill/tapped for spider for lifters.

the guy that bought it, said he was disappointed to see it was no roller, no spider girdle,etc
77 built 306,Trickflow Cam/Alum Heads/dome pistons/10:1comp,nv3550,duff long arms,3.5" lift,family cage,protofab rear bumper,twin sticked, and 35KM2'sG.D.I.
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#23
i think he said it came out of a 80's f150, around late 81- early 82 is when ford started the 50 oz balance, and that came with the one peice seal, i think in 87 is when ford started casting the 5.0 block for the roller lifters, they made the lifter bores taller and added the spider bolt bosses, need the casting numbers above the starter to figure out what year is really is, i do know that the 2 peice seal crankshafts have a little lip behind the #5 main bearing to help direct oil away from the seal as the 1 peice seal cranks do not have this, so you cant swap a early crank into a later block, if you can get the casting numbers they are right above the starter by the oil pan rail, should start with a e if its a 80's engine, D for 70's, C for 60's, F for 90's, look at this link it will have a better pick for you , hope this helps

http://www.mre-books.com/interchange/interchange2.html
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#24
blazinchuck Wrote:cant be roller if it wasnt drill/tapped for spider for lifters.

the guy that bought it, said he was disappointed to see it was no roller, no spider girdle,etc

sorry was trying to say it was a roller engine just that it might be a 50oz balance engine:beer:
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#25
GOODOLEBOY84 Wrote:i think he said it came out of a 80's f150, around late 81- early 82 is when ford started the 50 oz balance, and that came with the one peice seal, i think in 87 is when ford started casting the 5.0 block for the roller lifters, they made the lifter bores taller and added the spider bolt bosses, need the casting numbers above the starter to figure out what year is really is, i do know that the 2 peice seal crankshafts have a little lip behind the #5 main bearing to help direct oil away from the seal as the 1 peice seal cranks do not have this, so you cant swap a early crank into a later block, if you can get the casting numbers they are right above the starter by the oil pan rail, should start with a e if its a 80's engine, D for 70's, C for 60's, F for 90's, look at this link it will have a better pick for you , hope this helps

http://www.mre-books.com/interchange/interchange2.html

Useful info, but i think you got rolling in the wrong direction... i know what engine i have, i just dont know about the flywheel... the flywheel came of JPG's motor, and i put it on my 351... block casting number wont tell me anything i dont already know... Engine needs a 28oz flywheel, that has become fact. question is, what did i put on it without paying attention?! LOL! that'll learn me to get in a hurry...

biggest thing is that its obvious with all the talk, that there isnt a good way to be sure, and i dont even wanna start it without knowing for sure... im getting more and more OCD as the years go by, and it'll always bug me, if i dont check it out...

So first thing when i get home, engine is coming out and going on a stand... ill do flywheel headers, and power steering pump install outta the truck, and then put it back in to finish up... this is exactly why i did a removable inner fender/front clip mod when i had the body off... now getting the engine in and out will be easy peasy...

Thanks to everyone for all the info, it definitely helped make a decision! look forward to seeing ya'll in August at the Sumter Wrenchfest!!!
My Build Thread-
http://www.carolinabroncos.com/forums/sh...php?t=3919

You're gonna have to be more specific... 11/12/11
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#26
Sounds like a good plan of attack. The only thing that I would do different is to install the headers once the motor is in the vehicle. If you have long tube headers, I set them in place while setting the motor down. Sometimes they can be VERY tricky. Not near as bad if you are running shorties, but I leave them off until the motor is in. Makes it easier. I leave the spark plugs, wires, cap, carb, etc all off. Less chance to damage anything.
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#27
oh! ok that was my fault i got confusedConfusedcratchhe: ok then most likely its the wrong flywheel...
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#28
nick i left you a voice mail earlier


i spoke with the guy who bought jp's motor. he ran the numbers. the block came up as a late 70's to 80 truck block. non roller...so the fly wheel is a 28oz,


your fine with what you have nick
77 built 306,Trickflow Cam/Alum Heads/dome pistons/10:1comp,nv3550,duff long arms,3.5" lift,family cage,protofab rear bumper,twin sticked, and 35KM2'sG.D.I.
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#29
Sweet! Thanks a ton Chuck! The V-mail wont come through... im across the big drink right now... thats why i'm putting the wrenchfest off til august...

Thanks again, that's awesome!
My Build Thread-
http://www.carolinabroncos.com/forums/sh...php?t=3919

You're gonna have to be more specific... 11/12/11
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#30
so i guess that block had a D follwed by a single digit number on the casting? D denoted 70's, and the number told which year in that decade... if so then heck yeah, im good...

Big thanks again Chuck!
My Build Thread-
http://www.carolinabroncos.com/forums/sh...php?t=3919

You're gonna have to be more specific... 11/12/11
Reply


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