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nv3550/clutch issues...
#1
alright guys...im finding myself with some new issues here.

[back story] when building fat bottom girl, i used a 92 f150(4sp tranny)clutch/pressure plate/fly wheel...since i was running a 91 5.0 EFI and np435/205. the kit came with a hydro throw-out, but i reused the stock style throw-out instead. but the clutch wasnt disengaging just right so i sleeved the only adjustable rod that connects to the throw-out arm. and for almost 2 yrs-that worked [/back story]

now when i swapped in a nv3550(it came with 28oz fly wheel/clutch/pressure plate/throw-out) i was still running 5.0...so i reused my f150 fly wheel-of coarse. but couldnt reuse the f150 clutch due to spline count. so i reused the clutch that came with 3550, but the matching pressure plate didnt match the bolt holes on the 50oz fly wheel....(yall starting to see where im going now??lol)

i think i have a bast**d clutch set up...over that last couple months, ive been thinking my clutch wasnt just right. so i swap the stock clutch fork rod adjuster(that came with 3550) for my old sleeved adjuster and that got my some more peddle(from the floor)

last couple weeks ive noticed its getting closer to the floor when releasing again. so i lengthen the adjuster a couple threads again....well, i found myself today at a gas station trying the crank it up only to have it jump forward some while the clutch was pressed to the floor. so i had to aadjust the rod a couple more threads this evening again! im not sure why this has been changing some. the clutch rod looks stock, everything else looks stock(except the sleeved clutch fork rod 1" long adjuster rod i made).

i still have some play in the pedal before it engages the pressure plate, but the there is some pressure on the throw-out arm(non left that i can move by hand)

am i missing something here??

what would be the standard application for clutch/pressure plate when swapping in a 3550 to a 5.0?

we have our meet/greet coming up in 2 weeks with a wheeling that same weekend. i can see this biting me in the a$$...right at that time.



if there are some measurements i need to take, lemme know...thanks chuck
77 built 306,Trickflow Cam/Alum Heads/dome pistons/10:1comp,nv3550,duff long arms,3.5" lift,family cage,protofab rear bumper,twin sticked, and 35KM2'sG.D.I.
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#2
i had the same issues right after i swapped to 302 in mine. i had to adjust it a few times after the swap. i guess everything had to settle in or i didnt have it adjusted right from the get go.
If you can't fix it with a hammer and a welder then your gonna need a new one!
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#3
You don't think it's backing off on you and you're re-adjusting it to the same place each time do you?
'74 Grocery Getter, '73 Project Buggy, '77 Parts Rig

[Image: Bannerpic.jpg]
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#4
if the pressure plpate and the bearing/clutch arm arent form the same kit, then you could be ahaving a problem where the spring action(force) fom the pressure plate and the arm/bearing are not matched. could be wearing one component or the other at an accelerated rate... i.e. bending the actuator arm, compressing something on the bearing, or bending the pressure fingers in the plate.

Even saying that, i think thats a long shot, and it should be something way simpler, but its a theory...
My Build Thread-
http://www.carolinabroncos.com/forums/sh...php?t=3919

You're gonna have to be more specific... 11/12/11
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#5
I like SC74's suggestion better than mine... thats easily fixed with some loctite...
My Build Thread-
http://www.carolinabroncos.com/forums/sh...php?t=3919

You're gonna have to be more specific... 11/12/11
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#6
I would want to compare the disk thickness from each kit. It may be that the pressure plate was made to work with a thicker disk. Perhaps if you have some one at a parts store who can pull the kits off the shelf and compare the disk thickness and pressure plate height. At the forks and at the plate surface.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
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#7
iirc a former neighbor had a late 90s f150 with a 5spd in it. It was 4x4 and non granny, so Im guessing it was an nv35xx.

I would think that trans was designed to use hydro cltuch setup?
Ben...........Big Dixie Boggers........www.MudProMetalworks.com
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#8
chuck, have you tried advance adapters or one of the vendors to see what they are using? the flywheel is a non-issue, other than the mounting bolts, which I am surprised were different. let us know what you find.

if push comes to shove, i'll trade ya a nice C-4 for the trans Big Grin
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#9
ok, starting to figure this out(thanks to Nick at Wild Horses!!!)

my main issue...im running a diaphragm style pressure plate made for a hydro bearing. but im using a mech bearing.

the stock 3 figure pressure plate doesnt match the bolt holes on the fly wheel im running(which WH's recommends part # NFW 1128-O'rileys)

bolt spacing on 3 finger is 3", bolt spacing on diaphragm pressure plate is 3.250"(which is what the 1128 FW has)


the cheap option would be a 50oz FW that accepts a 3 finger style pressure plate. cant find that tho! plus a FW is about $60.

or order a new style diaphragm clutch designed to work with mech throw out bearing($200!!!)

and lastly...take the FW i have to a machine shop to have it modified to work with the older style 3 finger(dont know a cost for that)
77 built 306,Trickflow Cam/Alum Heads/dome pistons/10:1comp,nv3550,duff long arms,3.5" lift,family cage,protofab rear bumper,twin sticked, and 35KM2'sG.D.I.
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#10
does anyone know if the bolt spacing is 3.250"?? i found this part number from a post from Steve(HERE)

advance auto list this for a 300/6cyl 4 sp

would this be 50oz??
77 built 306,Trickflow Cam/Alum Heads/dome pistons/10:1comp,nv3550,duff long arms,3.5" lift,family cage,protofab rear bumper,twin sticked, and 35KM2'sG.D.I.
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