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Setting a solid foundation - how to prep the frame
#1
Fellas,
I'm pretty torn about what to do with my frame. I was looking at POR15 and Rust Encapsulator. Of course there are folks who swear by both products and they both look nice. I could do a hot galvanized dip. That would most likely be the cheapest route AND it would coat the inside of the frame. It is also the least aesthetically pleasing option. Rust bullett looks like it fits somewhere between those three previous options. I called a local shop today who said they would sandblast and powder coat the frame (in a stock color,; most likely black) for $550. That's the most expensive option, but is that about what you guys would pay in your town?
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#2
I like POR15 but you can't get inside the frame. I assume they are gonna blast the frame before the dip? If so, I would dip it and paint it.
'77 351w- Explorer EFI, 4R70W, 4-link, lockers, 4.56, 35" MT/Rs with a severe rock addiction.Confusedmokin:
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads.

[Image: sig2.jpg]
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#3
They don't generally blast before a dip, I don't think. But for just a few hundred more I guess I could blast, dip, and paint. I wonder if that would be overkill...


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#4
For that i would powder coat.

Sent from my GS3 on CyanogenMod with tapatalk2
'77 351w- Explorer EFI, 4R70W, 4-link, lockers, 4.56, 35" MT/Rs with a severe rock addiction.Confusedmokin:
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads.

[Image: sig2.jpg]
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#5
Fwiw, they take the frame and put it in an acid bath for hours depending on crude on frame. After the acid bath it goes to the dipping process which is a quick ten second dip then its hung out to cool, that's it. I was told the acid bath would remove every bit of the crap but in my case it didn't as you can see in my build. Anywhere crude (thick oil, factory welds etc.) is left the galvanizing process will not stick and leaves a terrible corroded spot. The guy told me to have those areas sandblasted and then bring the frame back to him and he'll re dip it for $80. Only guy I know that can sandblast with ease was my powder coater. He said he would charge me $90 per hour to sandblast whatever I bring him. He asked what I had and he said he can fix the corroded spots, sandblast and powder coat it a chassis black for $250. I gladly accepted his quote but I haven't had time to give him my frame since I was getting ready for my deployment.

It may sound like having my frame galvanized was a bad idea. But for a $100 the inside of my frame looks immaculate! The outside is good, but I'd pay $100 again to get the same results for inside the frame. So here is my recommendation to anyone willing to have there frame galvanized, wash the chit out of it. Next day wash the chit out of it, and do it again the next day! Sandblasting it would be the best option before taking to galvanizer. The dipping process will get rid of most of the inside crude including rust. I took a wire wheel to mine but it still didn't get in the nooks and crannies that eventually popped their head in end. Again though, the inside looks great except along the seams which I can live with.
[SIZE="2"]77 project bronco w/ 5.0 & c4, Sagi PS, 2 hard tops, eyebrow grill [/SIZE]
WANTED: auto column, gas tank, front/ rear seats
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#6
By the way, not many galvanizers will do small jobs. They also don't like doing car frames as it may distort it. I signed a waiver saying they are not responsible if the frame is bent. I figured if boat trailers can be done then a boxed bronco frame should hold up well. The guy who did my frame really doesn't want me to brag about his company doing what he did. But check your yellow pages and make a few calls. You might get lucky like I did!
[SIZE="2"]77 project bronco w/ 5.0 & c4, Sagi PS, 2 hard tops, eyebrow grill [/SIZE]
WANTED: auto column, gas tank, front/ rear seats
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