Posts: 4,530
Threads: 131
Joined: Nov 2005
Reputation:
0
Hey Bucketofbolts,
It is hard to tell from your picture on the C4 improvements write-up, but did you use a brass or galvanized 1/8" pipe plug on your stator?
My dumba** accidentally bought a 1/4" plug and came pretty close to drilling it out before I realized it was going to be too big. I got bad info from another article but fortunately remembered yours before the drill started turning!
Funny thing too was the selective thrust washer kit only came with variable #1s and not #2s so I hope my endplay comes out right the first time or it will be back to ordering since I have read that adjusting endplay with the #1 is a no-no.
'77 351w- Explorer EFI, 4R70W, 4-link, lockers, 4.56, 35" MT/Rs with a severe rock addiction. mokin:
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads.
![[Image: sig2.jpg]](http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll176/mchuzie/sig2.jpg)
Posts: 1,319
Threads: 42
Joined: Oct 2006
Reputation:
0
I used a brass plug. Thread it deep enough to get it close to being flush with out blocking the transfer passage. The use a file to contour it to the stator housing.
'72 TBA...
Posts: 4,530
Threads: 131
Joined: Nov 2005
Reputation:
0
'77 351w- Explorer EFI, 4R70W, 4-link, lockers, 4.56, 35" MT/Rs with a severe rock addiction.mokin:
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads.
Posts: 4,530
Threads: 131
Joined: Nov 2005
Reputation:
0
07-29-2008, 05:01 PM
(This post was last modified: 07-29-2008, 05:57 PM by chuzie.)
Ok finished the pump mod and my endplay is a .005 with a #1 thrust washer of .069 and a #2 of .091.
I guess I need to go find a smaller #2 to fix this issue. Maybe a .074 or .057 #2 will be the ticket.
What do I need to measure to make sure the #1 thrust washer is correct if I am not supposed to be manipulating the endplay with it?
'77 351w- Explorer EFI, 4R70W, 4-link, lockers, 4.56, 35" MT/Rs with a severe rock addiction.mokin:
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads.
Posts: 4,530
Threads: 131
Joined: Nov 2005
Reputation:
0
Ok. Well I went ahead and did what I could with my own mechanical logic. After mixing and matching I go my endplay to .012 with a .119 #1 and a .072 #2.
Since I only had one gasket I didn't want to jack it up playing around with the different washers so I did not have it installed with my initial measurements and that threw them off so make sure you take that into account if you do it that way.
So I buttoned up the pump and stator and installed the modulator and the governor as well as accomplished the air checks. All the air check s were fine but I was a little concerned that the air check for the governor produced odd results and this is why. You are supposed to run air from the governor outlet port and it is supposed to dither but even with high psi it did nothing except vent air through the inlet port. It was not until I plugged the inlet port that the dithering occurred. So this tells me the valves are moving but I am worried that something may be wrong since I had to plug the inlet to get it to work. Any thoughts?
'77 351w- Explorer EFI, 4R70W, 4-link, lockers, 4.56, 35" MT/Rs with a severe rock addiction.mokin:
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads.
Posts: 4,530
Threads: 131
Joined: Nov 2005
Reputation:
0
Today I adjusted the bands and installed other misc. stuff. Also started to tear down the valve body and found one of the check balls was missing but I am not sure of how that would affect the tranny. Luckily the kit came with replacements. I also started to remove all the valves and decided it was not worth all the trouble and also the possibility of messing something up so I just made sure they all actuated and left it at that. The kit came with two paper gaskets for the valve body. One of them matched up perfectly and the other would have worked but was kind of weird so I just left it off. While putting the valve body back together I stripped two of the bolts so now the project is on hold again until I can find someone to fix these stripped bolt holes. Unfortunately, I am flying tomorrow and won't have a chance to get it to the machine shop so looks like I will not be able to get the tranny back up this weekend. I guess I could slave the pan on and leave the valve body out so I can mount the tranny and just have it ready to accept the body when it is ready; that was I can get something productive done this weekend. I am on leave next week so there is no reason for this tranny project to not be completed.
'77 351w- Explorer EFI, 4R70W, 4-link, lockers, 4.56, 35" MT/Rs with a severe rock addiction.mokin:
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads.
Posts: 4,530
Threads: 131
Joined: Nov 2005
Reputation:
0
Got back from my flight a couple of hours early so I dashed home to see what I could accomplish.
Decided to drill and tap the stripped holes myself. 2 in the vale body, 1 on the pan, and 1 on the inspection shield. I found the perfect bolts to replace the ones in valve body. I have some extra hardware from my from my F-15 mechanic days and so now there are genuine F-15 engine bolts in my tranny.
Installed the valve body and buttoned up the pan so the tranny is complete. I will mate it with the Xfer Case slap in the TC and jam it in the bronco tomorrow.
Oh, all this only after I reinstall my 3" body lift and install a replacement NSS since I broke my during the teardown. If anyone has one please speak up.
If anyone has noticed, which I doubt, I stopped posting pics because it is a pain and I just don't have to time and patience to stop at each step and take one. Sorry to the one or two people actually reading this thread. 
Peace.
'77 351w- Explorer EFI, 4R70W, 4-link, lockers, 4.56, 35" MT/Rs with a severe rock addiction.mokin:
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads.
Posts: 4,530
Threads: 131
Joined: Nov 2005
Reputation:
0
Installed 7 of the 8 three inch body lift blocks today in preparation to jam the tranny. I also fixed the NSS I trashed on the removal. It ain't pretty but it will do the job for now. Lastly, I mated the Xfer case to the tranny and got it on the tranny jack for tomorrow.
I was thinking about changing the rear main seal but it is realtively new so I am going to leave it alone. I bet it starts leaking a week after I install the new tranny.
'77 351w- Explorer EFI, 4R70W, 4-link, lockers, 4.56, 35" MT/Rs with a severe rock addiction.mokin:
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads.
Posts: 4,530
Threads: 131
Joined: Nov 2005
Reputation:
0
Ogeechee was kind enough to drop a 3" block in the mail today so I am set in that depratment. Thanks bro!
Finished the tranny install and fired her up with the driveshafts removed so I could prime the system without a load.
There was a decent drip from the bellhousing at first so I suspect the seal just needed to get soaked and then it stopped after about 5 minutes. I think I have a small pan drip so we will see tomorrow if it continues or not.
Unfortunately the 5 quarts of type F was not enough to fill everything so I could only get the forward gears to work. I hope that the additional fluid tomorrow will energize the reverse mechanism.
Oh, and now that I put my 3" body lift back on I have to re-fabricate a linkage extension too. 
If the leaks stop and the reverse gear works I will install the driveshafts and take it for a spin. More tomorrow.
'77 351w- Explorer EFI, 4R70W, 4-link, lockers, 4.56, 35" MT/Rs with a severe rock addiction.mokin:
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads.
Posts: 4,530
Threads: 131
Joined: Nov 2005
Reputation:
0
Ok here is the deal...
Added fluid today to get up to required level. The leak that stopped yesterday from the shaft seal is back so I assume the only reason it stopped yesterday is because the fluid level got lower than the seal. NOT GOOD FOR ME!!!
Next... I installed the rear driveshaft and went through the range and I am getting nothing noticable in drive or reverse!
I need some direction on which way to take this and all suggestions are appreciated. I think I will have to pull the tranny out again because of the shaft seal but I want to try and nail down this other problem first to avoid coming down a third time. I guess I could pull the valvebody and have a pro look at it but I think a pressure test is in order first.
I still have no engine vacuum at the modulator but I do not think that would cause the problem I am experiencing, right? I do know the modulator controls pressure to some extent though.
I suppose I will have to run out and buy an oil pressure tester and hook up to the testing port to see what is going on but I wanted opinions first.
Thx,
Mike
'77 351w- Explorer EFI, 4R70W, 4-link, lockers, 4.56, 35" MT/Rs with a severe rock addiction.mokin:
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads.
|
