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clinking noise
#11
chulo2004 Wrote:i'll go do that right now. one more thing, is the front driveshaft suppose to have play and make a noise in the fornt diff while its in park and the motor is off?

In theory it not supposed to move at all. But if you have a stock drive shaft the splines can wear alittle causeing a flex in the shaft. If the play is in diff then ur clicking problem is probably the U joint. You can get a used drive shaft with both u joints from a scrap yard for 20$
General Jon
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#12
so i shouldnt worry about it being the front diff's. can i just replace the u joints and not the driveshaft?
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#13
chulo2004 Wrote:so i shouldnt worry about it being the front diff's. can i just replace the u joints and not the driveshaft?

Sure can. Confusedupergrin:
General Jon
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#14
Keep in mind that two new U-joints will run you about $15-25 a piece whereas the junk shaft about $20 like mudmonkey suggested.

If your xfer case is in neutral and the hubs are locked you should have a hair of play for the backlash in the diff which is fine. If it is excessive it could be the U-joint, splines on the shaft, diff, etc. Start with the U-joints/drive shaft.
'77 351w- Explorer EFI, 4R70W, 4-link, lockers, 4.56, 35" MT/Rs with a severe rock addiction.Confusedmokin:
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads.

[Image: sig2.jpg]
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#15
do i need to repalce anything else while putting in new u joints. besides the driveshaft.
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#16
Nope. Nothing really advantageous with just the driveshaft removed. Make sure you lube the shaft (so to speak) and the U-joints if they are not new.
'77 351w- Explorer EFI, 4R70W, 4-link, lockers, 4.56, 35" MT/Rs with a severe rock addiction.Confusedmokin:
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads.

[Image: sig2.jpg]
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#17
thanks for the help man.
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#18
I had that sound in my 92....turned out my driver side auto hub was the culprit. Replacing the u joints isn't a bad idea either. If you aren't comfortable changing them yourself, NAPA will do it for $5-10 per joint.
1996 Bronco, 302, E4OD -- 1977 F100, 300, C4
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