ECORS Class A race rig build

[broncosbybart]

I did not do anything to the top end. Next was the distributor. I wanted to install it while the oil pump was out, that way I would not have to fight with the oil pump shaft while installing. First order of business was to find TDC (top dead center) for the #1 cyl. On the balancer there is a big groove machined into it, but that is not a timing mark. Upon cleaning the balancer, I found the timing marks. I used a yellow paint marker to brighten them some for when it will be timed with a timing light while running. The yellow should make it easier to read the timing marks.

Crank set at TDC, which is at 0 degress on the balancer.



Next, I set the distributor in. It isn't hard, but the bigges thing is trying to align the rotor with the #1 terminal on the distributor cap. Since the distributor cap needs to be removed to see the rotor, I marked the outside plastic of the lower distributor base housing where the #1 terminal is. It isn't an exact science, but it does need to be close.



I installed some adapters in the lower intake for the ECT and the temperature gauge (aftermarket mechanical gauge). I removed the stock metal heater core tubes. People are debating that the ECT needs to be there to work correctly, but the sensor is in the way of the distributor, and it is a race rig. My theory is that water flows constantly through the engine anyway, so it should be fine. Might run rich for a little while longer after startup, but no biggie to mel.



Next was the installation of the oil pump shaft, the new high volume pump, and pickup tube. While it was there, it got a new rear main seal and 1 piece oil pan gasket. I did put a dab of silicone on the corner tabs of the oil pan gasket, where it meets up with the semi-circular crank mains.



Next, was the finishing touch- a quick rattle can rebuild...