04-18-2011, 02:59 PM
Too funny. I will say that for yours, it would be a lot more work. I am pretty small and the rear cab body mounts did not need to be relocated. I would guess that you would need to move them back more so that you could cut more of the floor out, as you'd need more leg room. That would get to be a bunch of work in a hurry.
I used the stock Explorer cable for one section. I soldered a new terminal onto the cut end and put that on the one side of the fuse block. It was 4ga so I used about 1.5' of 4 ga to go from the fuse block to the battery terminal. I don't know that the fuse is essential, but thought it would be a good idea, in case the alt screws up and sends a current spike.
You could likely get 2 ga wire, but it isn't needed. I did buy 2 ga wires for the starter and for my ground to the engine. I have a 4 ga wire from the engine to the chassis and the stock braided wire going from the engine to what is left of the body tub. I did run all my grounds (except for the computer and engine harness) to the chassis, not back to the battery. Took a lot less wire and the chassis was all cleaned up. Shouldn't have any grounding issues.
I used the stock Explorer cable for one section. I soldered a new terminal onto the cut end and put that on the one side of the fuse block. It was 4ga so I used about 1.5' of 4 ga to go from the fuse block to the battery terminal. I don't know that the fuse is essential, but thought it would be a good idea, in case the alt screws up and sends a current spike.
You could likely get 2 ga wire, but it isn't needed. I did buy 2 ga wires for the starter and for my ground to the engine. I have a 4 ga wire from the engine to the chassis and the stock braided wire going from the engine to what is left of the body tub. I did run all my grounds (except for the computer and engine harness) to the chassis, not back to the battery. Took a lot less wire and the chassis was all cleaned up. Shouldn't have any grounding issues.