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I have never heard of pulling the pin on the proportioning valve when bleeding. I've always replaced them when the bias had been tripped or indicated. When it is tripped the switch should be made causing the emergency brake light to turn on, indicating a problem.
You have replaced the valve before? Have you tried a standard drum brake H block instead of the disc brake proportioning valve? Or for experimental/diagnosis purposes bypassing the proportioning valve completely?
'72 TBA...
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I will scan the book so ya'll can see. Maybe I am wrong. The prop valve has been eliminated completely, replaced by another identical prop, even replaced by an adjustable prop with no change to the system's performance.
I think the H-block trips the light when there is an out of balance (pressure) situation whereas the prop trips the light with a leak. Not 100% sure on that though.
'77 351w- Explorer EFI, 4R70W, 4-link, lockers, 4.56, 35" MT/Rs with a severe rock addiction. mokin:
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads.
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Try bleeding with out messing with the prop vavle. If the vavle has been tripped I have often been able to free them by tapping with a hammer. Doesnt always work but worth a try.
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This last bleed I did not mess with it at all and it will not retract. Getting a new Prop valve from Chuck this weekend. We will see how that goes.
'77 351w- Explorer EFI, 4R70W, 4-link, lockers, 4.56, 35" MT/Rs with a severe rock addiction.mokin:
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads.
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My 2 cents. I would take that proportioning valve and throw it over the fence into my neighbors yard. Then I would install an aftermarket adjustable prop. valve like the one summit sells and be done with it.
I dont need a dummy light to tell me my brakes aint working.
JMHO.:popc1:
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chuzie Wrote:I will scan the book so ya'll can see. Maybe I am wrong. The prop valve has been eliminated completely, replaced by another identical prop, even replaced by an adjustable prop with no change to the system's performance.
I think the H-block trips the light when there is an out of balance (pressure) situation whereas the prop trips the light with a leak. Not 100% sure on that though.
Guess You already tried that.:doh3:
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Sure did with the exact adjustable you mentioned. No change. Thanks though.
'77 351w- Explorer EFI, 4R70W, 4-link, lockers, 4.56, 35" MT/Rs with a severe rock addiction.mokin:
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads.
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Got the new prop valve from Chuck the other day and stripped the crap out of one of the ports so I can't use it anymore.
Decided just to completely remove the prop valve from my system all together (AGAIN) since the old one was acting funny and I had nothing to replace it with anyway. Bled the crap out of it and still no change.
I think I remember reading something years ago about how air can ghet trapped in the calipers since the bleeds are on the side in the middle. Can anyone confim this?
I should get home from this trip the day before URE (I HOPE) and will try to remove the calipers and bleed them at an angle as a last ditch effort to get some decent braking action before I leave on Friday. Otherwise, I will have to suck it up and deal with what I have.
Let's face it, I didn't have brakes last year and only a couple of people had their life flash before their eyes. 
'77 351w- Explorer EFI, 4R70W, 4-link, lockers, 4.56, 35" MT/Rs with a severe rock addiction.mokin:
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads.
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A prop vavle is importent to proper braking. To be sure there is no air in the lines when bleeding, use a peice of clear hose into an empty brake bottle. With the hose going up from the bleeder, air cant go back into the caliper.
I'll look and see if I have any prop vavles, I will also bring my tools from work with me to URE too see if we cant figure something out.
Broncomatt
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thanks bro
'77 351w- Explorer EFI, 4R70W, 4-link, lockers, 4.56, 35" MT/Rs with a severe rock addiction.mokin:
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads.
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