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bronco lean
#1
today, i thought i would investigate the front some. being that its sunday, i didn't want to go so deep, that it would cost me all day.

a little history, i swapped out a WH's 5.5" lift-11 leaf/rock crawler coils for a used JD's 3.5" 11 leaf and my used 3.5" cage coils which i used on my rock crawler before.

for some reason, the rears seemed worn out, not willing to support any loads in the rear. didnt sit level either. so i just found a complete set of WH's 3.5" 11 leafs with extreme ubolt plate/kit. these springs sat better, more level and can handle some weight. the bronco has no body lift, has a protofab family cage and rear bumper w/tire carrier. im only running 33" tires. so i know the tire isnt weighing my truck down.

i measured a few things today, and see atleast 1.5" difference between sides. the whole pass side is lower. also when i "get on it"...i feel a lot of weight transfer to the rear pass side. the lift kit was swapped out using a car lift(in the air)

so i figured i would do some of what WH's laid out in there tech section for bronco lean. i also wanted to replace the stock lower coil buckets with the one from James Duff. the cage coils wouldnt sit right in the stockers.

it took some trimming to the WH's riser to use the JD buckets. while i was there, i loosened the radius arms on both sides and slowly tightened them using the X pattern. i was hoping this might relieve some binding from installing in the air on a lift.

i noticed a couple things i will have to address soon. the driver side knuckle needs ball joints, also i measured from the JD arm frame mount bolt to the shock mount and saw a 1/8" difference. pass side was 36"...driver side was 35-7/8". i know i need to really do what WH said about leveling the radius arms to the floor while mounted on the axle but didnt want to get carried away today being sunday. id rather start this on a fri evening and maybe with some extra help. also i was sure how well that leveling would work with these duff arms.

feel free to post up some ideas. i even swapped coils from side to side...it was hard to tell, but driver side looked a hair longer, so i tried that too with no luck. i guess ill be back under the front trying more stuff.


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77 built 306,Trickflow Cam/Alum Heads/dome pistons/10:1comp,nv3550,duff long arms,3.5" lift,family cage,protofab rear bumper,twin sticked, and 35KM2'sG.D.I.
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#2
saw this on classic and posted there. let me know if you need to borrow the plasma cutter...

one other suggestion- heat the driver's side springs till it sits level Big Grin
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#3
your input is no longer needed here BURT...i mean Bart lol
77 built 306,Trickflow Cam/Alum Heads/dome pistons/10:1comp,nv3550,duff long arms,3.5" lift,family cage,protofab rear bumper,twin sticked, and 35KM2'sG.D.I.
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#4
I had that problem once and found that one of the C bushings was installed upside down. I would look at the radius arms for sure, I don't think that 1/8 of a inch on the mounting brackets would cause that much of a problem.
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#5
i agree Cam...just really didnt want to drop the arms and everything this evening. its my daily driver, so i have to be careful which can of worms i open up lol
77 built 306,Trickflow Cam/Alum Heads/dome pistons/10:1comp,nv3550,duff long arms,3.5" lift,family cage,protofab rear bumper,twin sticked, and 35KM2'sG.D.I.
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#6
I fought this on my rig for several days, I learned from duff the largest cause is the axle twisting in the bushings as its bolted down. Since I was there when they were first put in I know we put lube on them. But even though that was done if it were my ride I would check how level the axle is (say the spindle bolts as a leveling point?). Even pull the bushings again and lube the arm sides too. Just thinking out loud here.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
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#7
My rig had the lean. I tried all the online remedies. I even went as far as to preload the drivers side so it would lean to the passenger side.

I eventually fixed it with a new set of 10 leaf rears.
'72 TBA...
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