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04-13-2008, 06:48 PM
(This post was last modified: 04-14-2008, 02:29 PM by chuzie.)
A lift is a good way to learn about the suspension system and the drivetrain. I would recommend it. Keep someone in your back pocket to help if you get stuck and make sure you have a decent set of tools or at the very leat what the kit recommends.
The speedo will be off with larger tires but can usually be corrected with a replacement gear on the cable. Pretty easy fix.
'77 351w- Explorer EFI, 4R70W, 4-link, lockers, 4.56, 35" MT/Rs with a severe rock addiction.mokin:
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads.
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You could probobly do the lift in a weekend in your driveway. I did mine in 1 day at a buddy of mine's shop. We had all the tools needed of course plus a lift so we could work under it. Don't forget you have to factor in running into problems along the way.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
79 FS 351M, Trac loc HPD44, Detroit 9", 4.56's, 37 Toyo's, 17" Helo Maxx 6
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Definitely is a weekend project. The worst part is grinding the rivets out of the radius arm brackets. After you get past that, it is smooth sailing.
1996 Bronco, 302, E4OD -- 1977 F100, 300, C4
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rcflyer23 Wrote:Well that just sounds fun and exciting. cratchhe:
I think I will bring it to the shop here at the office when I plan on doing that. We have a lift here but it is only a 2 post lift so maybe I will just use jackstands.
When do you think you'll get started?
You may have alot of :banghead: And you may have some of :xyxthumbs: But you will definately have :beer: at the end
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
79 FS 351M, Trac loc HPD44, Detroit 9", 4.56's, 37 Toyo's, 17" Helo Maxx 6
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Does NC have inspections? Rip the Cat out of there. Spend your money on something else.
'77 351w- Explorer EFI, 4R70W, 4-link, lockers, 4.56, 35" MT/Rs with a severe rock addiction.mokin:
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads.
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If I were you, I'd take a day before you get the lift and grind out the rivets now. Even if you decide against the lift later, it makes it much easier to change your radius arm bushings. I can't remember on your year model, but I think only the driver side is riveted on. The passenger sides on the later models came bolted from the factory because the bushing was prone to failing quickly due to the close proximity to the catalytic converter.
I used a grinder to get the head off and then used a punch to drive them out. I've also heard of people doing it much quicker with a torch or an air chisel.
After that it is a matter of unbolting the TTB, and installing all the new brackets, coils, brake lines, etc. Make sure to get a nice pitman arm remover and it helps to have a buddy around to wrestle the TTB halves back into place once the new brackets are in.
1996 Bronco, 302, E4OD -- 1977 F100, 300, C4