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Off Road!
#31
Thanks for the info. I figured that would end up being the answer but I am a firm believer if I don't know I'll ask that way I don't end up looking more like an idiot if I assume. Smile I will go check it out when I finally get some hooks.

So here is another question. How difficult is it to do a 4" lift. Is this something I should just have someone do for me or is it a good shadetree project. I know that is going to be one of the first things I want to do, then put on some 35" tires. A guy at the office has them on his F250 and they look great. Will I need to calibrate the speedo for that as well? I guess I could start additional threads on this if need be.

Thanks for indulging the new guy. Smile
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#32
A lift is a good way to learn about the suspension system and the drivetrain. I would recommend it. Keep someone in your back pocket to help if you get stuck and make sure you have a decent set of tools or at the very leat what the kit recommends.

The speedo will be off with larger tires but can usually be corrected with a replacement gear on the cable. Pretty easy fix.
'77 351w- Explorer EFI, 4R70W, 4-link, lockers, 4.56, 35" MT/Rs with a severe rock addiction.Confusedmokin:
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads.

[Image: sig2.jpg]
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#33
You could probobly do the lift in a weekend in your driveway. I did mine in 1 day at a buddy of mine's shop. We had all the tools needed of course plus a lift so we could work under it. Don't forget you have to factor in running into problems along the way.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
79 FS 351M, Trac loc HPD44, Detroit 9", 4.56's, 37 Toyo's, 17" Helo Maxx 6
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#34
Definitely is a weekend project. The worst part is grinding the rivets out of the radius arm brackets. After you get past that, it is smooth sailing.
1996 Bronco, 302, E4OD -- 1977 F100, 300, C4
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#35
justin Wrote:Definitely is a weekend project. The worst part is grinding the rivets out of the radius arm brackets. After you get past that, it is smooth sailing.

Well that just sounds fun and exciting. Confusedcratchhe:

I think I will bring it to the shop here at the office when I plan on doing that. We have a lift here but it is only a 2 post lift so maybe I will just use jackstands.
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#36
rcflyer23 Wrote:Well that just sounds fun and exciting. Confusedcratchhe:

I think I will bring it to the shop here at the office when I plan on doing that. We have a lift here but it is only a 2 post lift so maybe I will just use jackstands.

When do you think you'll get started?
You may have alot of :banghead: And you may have some of :xyxthumbs: But you will definately have :beer: at the end
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
79 FS 351M, Trac loc HPD44, Detroit 9", 4.56's, 37 Toyo's, 17" Helo Maxx 6
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#37
jollygrngiant Wrote:When do you think you'll get started?
You may have alot of :banghead: And you may have some of :xyxthumbs: But you will definately have :beer: at the end

It will probably honestly be later this year or early next year. We are building a house right now so that is taking priority. Plus I need to get some mechanical things taken care of. I think I either need a Torque converter or the cat. converter is bad. When it gets warmed up it doesn't have as much power off the line and wants to hesitate. One of the guys at the office and I are supposed to tear her apart in a couple of weeks to figure out what I need. He has a 78 Bronco. Once I get that figured out I will get the working on the fun stuff.

I am thinking the lift, tires and then I will work out the inside and outside. I want to get her painted but at the same time I don't want to be afraid to take her out on the trails.
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#38
Does NC have inspections? Rip the Cat out of there. Spend your money on something else.
'77 351w- Explorer EFI, 4R70W, 4-link, lockers, 4.56, 35" MT/Rs with a severe rock addiction.Confusedmokin:
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads.

[Image: sig2.jpg]
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#39
If I were you, I'd take a day before you get the lift and grind out the rivets now. Even if you decide against the lift later, it makes it much easier to change your radius arm bushings. I can't remember on your year model, but I think only the driver side is riveted on. The passenger sides on the later models came bolted from the factory because the bushing was prone to failing quickly due to the close proximity to the catalytic converter.

I used a grinder to get the head off and then used a punch to drive them out. I've also heard of people doing it much quicker with a torch or an air chisel.

After that it is a matter of unbolting the TTB, and installing all the new brackets, coils, brake lines, etc. Make sure to get a nice pitman arm remover and it helps to have a buddy around to wrestle the TTB halves back into place once the new brackets are in.
1996 Bronco, 302, E4OD -- 1977 F100, 300, C4
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#40
chuzie Wrote:Does NC have inspections? Rip the Cat out of there. Spend your money on something else.

Unfortunately they do and I do want to keep it road legal or else it would have already been gone and replaced with a straight pipe and a flowmaster or two.
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