Need some advice

[johnpaulgolf]

I am currrently fixin my steering box. I think its leaking out of where the steering shaft goes in and where the part that bolts to the housing where the pump lines connect. I believe its a 2wd gear box out of a f-150? Chuck you looked at it any ideas?cratchhe:

[chuzie]

I have taken one of them apart before for the same issue. You can buy a seal kit for it but beware that if you open it up you (a) risk comtaminating it and/or (b) risk it not going back together correctly even if you life depends on it.

I experienced the later of the two and ended up sending my utter failure to WTOF for an overhaul. It was the worm and the bal bearings that kicked my butt in the end.

[johnpaulgolf]

Chuzie, I think I might just deal with it for now. upergrin:

Ford's are supposed to have oil leaks right? :laugh2:

Got it clean up and started to paint, cleaned frame and mounting plates and started to paint hopefully tommorow I will have it all back ready to test new elec fan.
:upup:
:chili:

[blazinchuck]

the fan looks awesome! gonna run a thermo switch?

[johnpaulgolf]

the fan looks awesome! gonna run a thermo switch?

do you think I should? hrug: I was just gonna toggle it or maybe key switch power cratchhe:cratchhe:

[Audra]

I've got my fan on a toggle switch hrug:

Keeps me more aware of my vehicle's temps and whatnot. I tend to get lazy if too much is automated. :beer:

[blazinchuck]

well, i ran them on a temp switch-with and over ride(toggle) the adjustable one's have always done me good. However, I have never ran just a elec fan before. They have always been extra cooling only...so someone running them full time would have more experience .

[Audra]

My 78 can't run more than a few minutes without the electric fan setup unless it is pretty cold outside....

[chuzie]

Can't really run a temp through the aluminum radiator without the risks previously discussed during the cooling problem. Conversely, if you use a manual ON switch, you run the risk of forgetting to turn the fan on and don't realize it until you are too hot (like i do all the time).

Solutions:

1. Run a bright LED (or other light) somewhere in the typical field of view in the cab / dash to indicate when the fan is off. You could even make it blink or put a little buzzer or chime on it as a reminder to turn the fan on.

or

2. Run a standard external temp switch where it will not come in contact with the radiator but still receive enough heat to actuate. If you do this try to find a temp switch that has a lower threshold for actuation since the temp it receives will naturally be lower considering it is not in direct contact with the hot part of the radiator tubes.

Or

3. Run the fan to be hot off the ignition and place a switch in -line to manually turn the fan OFF when necessary (during engine run). Consider implementing solution 1 into this as well. No reason to really have the fan running when the engine is off since no water will be moving through the radiator. A constant ON switch is really obsolete versus a hot wired ignition setup.

or

4. They do have temp switches to place in-line with the actual water line ports on the block. Something similar to this http://www.prchotrod.com/products/cooling_accessories
I would definitely recommend this option though.

[Traveler]

You can do it much cheaper than you realize.

If you get a temp switch. Like one that runs the idiot light.
Stick it right in the head or thermostat neck where it belongs.

Get one with a setting like 210 degrees. Most switches operate in a range, like on, or ground at 210 degrees, and opens, or un grounds at 180.

If you ground the power relay with that, your fan will only run between those temps.

If you want it to stay on longer, interlock the relay, so once it comes on, it stays on until the power is killed like with the key switch.

Lots of very cool ways you can do it, ranging for less than $20 all the way up to hundreds.

I don't have an everco catalog anymore, but they had them listed out by settings, find the one you want and call up napa.