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ECORS Class A race rig build
Jumped around a bit. Started some body work. Call me Dr plastic. I really hate body work. It won't be a show piece, but it will at least be presentable.

Every piece of metal needed some dent pulling and filler...

Had to weld a few cracks, too. There are some rust issues in the fenders and grille, but it doesn't have to be perfect.


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Back to some more plumbing work. Got the correct fittings for the braided stainless power steering line. I used the whiz wheel to cut the hose to the desired length. I did wrap electrical tape around the line first before I cut it to help keep it from fraying. It cut very easily.


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Next thing I did was finish the gas pedal.


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Then I removed the trans pan to drill and tap it for a temp sender. Cleaned it up and bolted it back on.


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Finally onto some wiring. I ended up running a Quick Car switch panel instead of fabbing one up. It was about $55 and looked great. I would have had at least that much in parts by the time I got all of it.

We learned from the last race that the ignition, horn, and switches need to be within arms reach. The dash mounted key switch wasn't reachable with a 5 point racing harness keeping me in place... So, this switch panel will be mounted between the seats well within arms reach.


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I got the engine harness all bolted down and plugged in. While I was at it, I finished modifying the harness for the ignition coil, as well as for the fuses and relays.

Then came wiring and plumbing the gauges- engine temp, oil pressure, fuel level, trans temp, and voltage. I got some LED lights- 1 for the voltage warning indicator and 1 for the check engine light.


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Next came finishing the fuel lines. They are all 6AN with rubber twist tite style hoses. Got it all done and put some fuel in it today. I have a slight leak at my fuel shut off. One of the fitting was standard NPT and I didn't teflon tape it- leaks ever so slightly. Can't really even notice it, but I will redo it. Lesson learned.

Today I also finished the chassis wiring. It has head and tail lights, a horn, electric fans on the radiator and trans cooler, fuel cell sender wiring, and brake lights. I also bolted up some collectors for the exhaust manifolds and put the oxygen sensors in.

Then I hooked the battery up and turned the ignition- I can hardly hear the fuel pump- it is very quiet. At first I didn't think it was working. I tried cranking it but it wouldn't start. Checked spark and that was great. Then I hooked a fuel pressure gauge up to the fuel rail. No pressure.

I primed it for a bit until pressure built up. Cranked it and it fired right up. IT LIVES!!!! Again, big thanks to NICK H for getting all the engine wiring straightened out! I feel like a big hurtle is now past. I didn't run it much, but it seemed to run well, even without an exhaust system on it. The PS pump fitting is leaking a bit. I guess I need to get the better fitting from Lee Power Steering.
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You are making quick progress! When it's the first race for it?
'74 Grocery Getter, '73 Project Buggy, '77 Parts Rig

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Thanks again. The next race is coming up on April 30. I hope to have all the bugs worked out of it by then... Don't want something to come up during the race. My main concern is overheating. It has a new rad in it, but it is tiny like they all are...
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i got a 2300 cfm spal fan...great work by the way. i thought i done a lot of wrenching before the m&g but youve well out done me...keep up the progress. where is the next race at?
If you can't fix it with a hammer and a welder then your gonna need a new one!
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