ECORS Class A race rig build

[SC74]

Any Alabama updates? Ya'll there safe?

[broncosbybart]

WELL, it might just be a blessing in disguise on the trans. It ran HOT. We were slated for 10 laps. On the 3rd lap, it climbed over 210. By the 4th lap, it was pegged past 250... I just ran it. No problems out of it, but she was HOT... The engine temps were perfect, staying right at about 165, according to the gauge. We only suffered a flat tire on the 9th lap, which happened in a turn not more than a quarter mile from the start/finsih/pit area. So, I just drove it to the pit area so we could change it there. Please tune into my thread on race 2 for the results!! The old Bronco did us proud!

The July 9 race is the Spartanburg race. I believe it is gonna be held at the fairgounds there. (So, probably no shade trees in sight)... We will have an easy up. You are all more than welcome to come and hang out with us. Might want to bring some extra shade, if you have anything. Entry is typically about $10 or so per person and they are very cool about letting people wander around and the like.

I will have more info as we get closer. Right now, I am still trying to deal with the taste of dust in my mouth...

[broncosbybart]

Cleaned it up today. Still have more cleaning to do. There is mud, rocks, and treep parts everywhere... Nothing was cracked or broken. Came close though. The track bar riser contacts the frame, evidenced by the paint removed from both. The track bar itself did dent the oil pan some. It contacts it!!! Gotta fix that for sure! Other than that, have several bent rims and leaking beads. That is what caused the flat we had in the race. I aired it up and found it leaking on the inside bead. I guess that the air pressure dropped low enough to pop the outside bead in the hard left hander.

[scbronco]

are you considering adding rock rings to prevent the rim damage? i'd be interested in seeing the process if you do! more pics!

[broncosbybart]

I don't think so, but they shouldn't be a tough install. Are you pondering on them?

Honestly, the sidewalls of the tires are getting torn up as bad as (or worse) than the rims. If I had money to burn, I'd go to Discount Tire and get 5 new tires along with their replacement program. I could guarantee at least 1 tire returned per race.... One guy in the B class tore a brand new (1 previous race) BFG sticky crawler (think $400+) tire. OUCH!!!

[744x4]

Don't say that.... you know it's one of my biggest regrets on Big Country. Always something I can do later though.

If you hadnt bought the Wide Body seat it would have been easier to do.Now it is gonna take a act of Congress due to the seats tied into the cage that is now part of the suspension system.

[scbronco]

I don't think so, but they shouldn't be a tough install. Are you pondering on them?

Honestly, the sidewalls of the tires are getting torn up as bad as (or worse) than the rims. If I had money to burn, I'd go to Discount Tire and get 5 new tires along with their replacement program. I could guarantee at least 1 tire returned per race.... One guy in the B class tore a brand new (1 previous race) BFG sticky crawler (think $400+) tire. OUCH!!!

ive been thinking of doing the homebrew beadlocks or weld in rock rings after the build is complete, but that is a "later" project... i dont want vehicle completion hinging on something that isnt integral to the project.

[scbronco]

No prob on the engine stand! Ruff Stuff has them. These are the 1-1/4" heims. They fit pretty well. I did have to do some minor grinding on the ends of the misalignment spacers to make them fit between the mounting brackets, but that was easy.

i dont mean to highjack, but i thoughtby placing it here, it would reference your mod for comparison... im kinda using your arms as a base template for what i wanna do...

Charles, couple of questions... just looking for yours and anyone elses opinions. I am at the point in my build where i need to consider rod ends for my control arm modofications... i am looking at a similar mod to what you did, but i am not sure how far i want to go with it.

i had considered lengthening the control arms about 8-10 inches which will require a bend in the arm to get the geometry right at the axle. since i only have a 1.5" dye for my bender, i intend to use 1.5" .025 wall tube as my arm material. this would require me to use the 3/4" heims, instead of your 1.25" heims. 1st question is how did you like the flex you got out of your conversion since you stayed stock length and just converted to heims? would you encourage or discourage lengthening the arms?

Next, if i stay stock length, i can use bigger tube, since i wont need a bend, which will allow for the bigger hiem. the 3/4" hiem is rated a 32,400 lbs radial load, and the 1.25" heim is rated at 78,000 lbs. obviously the ratings speak for them selves, but for a non-race rig do you think the 3/4" unit is sufficient?

i know i am asking for opinions here, so everybody let em' fly!

[SC74]

Keith and I made a set of extended arms for John Paul that were for sale. It was made out of 1.75" .250 wall - way overkill. We had the bend in them and sleeved the stock "c" section for the stock axle mount.

All the heim end really does is create a pivot point and prevent front/back movement. Now consider you trailer hitch - the hitch pin (maybe 5/8"?) is all that is between your receiver ball staying in and coming out while towing. I have always over-built things, but in this case I think a smaller heim joint would be acceptable.

[broncosbybart]

these arms were fabbed from 2" .250 wall. I wouldn't make them out of tubing that was any smaller, myself. It is pretty easy to ding .120 wall stuff. I like the 1.25" heim ends. You can get away with 3/4" heims, but I have read a few places that people were breaking them. Not sure what they were doing to break them, but.... The original radius arms that were on the trail rig when I got it were 3/4. They are way smaller than the 1.25" heims. I personally didn't like them so much, especially when they were attached by a 1/2" bolt. To give them a fair shot, they were working fine when I took them off, and I am sure they saw some hard use. When you run the misalignment spacers on the 1.25" heims, the bolts used are 3/4, which I like.

I'd definitely go longer on the radius arms. I wasn't sure what the rules were going to say about long arms at the time I fabbed them, so I wanted to avoid any issues. The flex I am getting isn't as much as I thought it would be, but that is ok since it keeps the body roll down in the high speed corners. The longer Duff's arms on the trail rig flex like crazy.

More than anything, the bend in the radius arm tube is done for tire clearance while turning when larger tires are run. You might be able to find an exhaust shop to bend the large heavy walled tube. i'd call around on that one. Robert and Keith broke a die and had to fix/modify it to bend the .250 wall stuff.