Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
rear main
#1
so this might be a shot in the dark. can the rear main seal be replaced without pulling the engine. new to the 351m class...doin some research before i go deeper than i need to. all input is welcome! thanks asiel
If you can't fix it with a hammer and a welder then your gonna need a new one!
Reply
#2
pull the tranny. gotta pull something unfortunately
'77 351w- Explorer EFI, 4R70W, 4-link, lockers, 4.56, 35" MT/Rs with a severe rock addiction.Confusedmokin:
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need roads.

[Image: sig2.jpg]
Reply
#3
once u pull tranny it is a peice of cake...replaced mine when i first got it
I'm GUMBY DAM**T!!
Reply
#4
The 351M should have a two piece rope-type seal. That means you need to drop the oil pan and remove the rear main cap. Then fish the upper half in to the block and the lower in to the cap.
'72 TBA...
Reply
#5
They make a tool for this called the Sneaky Pete! x2 on the rear main cap and fishing the seal out.
Joseph I.T. Guy! "Weeehooo, uh oh!"
Reply
#6
It is a rubber 2 peice seal, sticks out of the block some and out of the main cap some. You can usualy push the seal out of the block with a peice of coat hanger. The main cap is easy.
You dont have too pull anything more than the oil pan, starter, maybe your y-pipe.
If the block side is hard to get out, loosen all the main bolts a few turns, takes the press off the seal. Besure to lube it good when you put it back in, and be very carefull to not peal any rubber off the seal as you push it in.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Reply
#7
I actuly can give you some pics of what they look like apart as mine is on the stand still. If you feel that will help some.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Reply
#8
thanks! pics are always nice to go by.i dont have to worry bout a y pipe because it has headers so after looking prolly just starter and oil pan! thanks guys.
If you can't fix it with a hammer and a welder then your gonna need a new one!
Reply
#9
Remember to properly re-torque the rear cap and any other main cap bolts that you loosen. Wasn't I, but I did see the aftermath once...
'72 TBA...
Reply
#10
complete no more leaking from rear main! now just from valve cover...
If you can't fix it with a hammer and a welder then your gonna need a new one!
Reply


Possibly Related Threads…
Thread Author Replies Views Last Post
  1977 Ford Bronco rear ended 9" rebuild Crawdad 10 5,148 01-19-2017, 12:53 PM
Last Post: snipes243
  Rebuilding used rear leaf springs Crawdad 5 4,291 12-12-2016, 11:54 AM
Last Post: Crawdad
  Lighted rear view mirror chuzie 6 4,716 06-20-2015, 12:18 AM
Last Post: chuzie
  rear main seal snipes243 5 2,982 05-03-2014, 11:45 AM
Last Post: chuzie
  stock rear drums scbronco 11 2,586 03-06-2014, 08:09 PM
Last Post: Bronco Biff
  Late 70s Cadi rear disc brakes for 77 banjo rear end Crawdad 11 3,875 01-11-2014, 12:26 AM
Last Post: Crawdad
  77 EB Rear Drive Shaft Dropped - Second time in six months UTFLIWGYA 4 2,037 12-01-2013, 10:38 PM
Last Post: broncomatt
  Grinding sound from rear end area when driving Crawdad 10 4,479 02-09-2013, 09:33 PM
Last Post: blazinchuck
  '94 351 Rear Main replacement JayT 5 1,653 12-22-2012, 05:34 PM
Last Post: JayT
  5.0 rear main bearing... is it going out??? chuzie 16 3,957 12-18-2012, 04:52 PM
Last Post: chuzie

Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)