ECORS Class A race rig build

[broncosbybart]

Time for another update. The trans is back! Thanks again Aaron!! Got a new torque converter for it. Now, I can start piecing together the drivetrain. First I wanted to check suspension travel to locate the rear shock hoops and limit straps/bump stops.



First, I did want to finally bolt the quarters down. Bent some 1-1/2 HREW tube up and welded it in. The quarters are bolted with 3 bolts on each side and 2 in the back. Turned out pretty good. Cleaned up the rust and gave it a quick coat of paint and black while I was there.

[broncosbybart]

Fabbed up some bump stop mounts. Used 1.5x3" rectangle. Welded nuts on the inside, then capped the tube and welded it to the bottom of the frame. I wanted to get the bump stops a little closer to the rear axle. I will be using 2x2 square tube on the front to raise the bump stops on the front axle.

[broncosbybart]

Next I fabbed up some tube for the upper shock mounts. We started using straight tube, but after some fitting, I decided to bend up some new tube to get a better position on the shocks. The lower end has tabs welded right to the spring plates.

[broncosbybart]

I have the upper suppport tubes made for the limit straps, but don't have any pics of those yet.

I got a note from Nick H. He has the wiring harness done, so I decided to tear the drive train out to get the engine ready and to put the trans and t-case in it.



Drive train is out

[broncosbybart]

Now time to tear into the engine. I wanted to do away with the alum pan. A steel pan will dent rather than crack if hit with suspension parts or rocks or Jeeps...

Taking the front dress off





Taking the pan off

[broncosbybart]

While it is like this, it will get a new high volume oil pump, rod, and main bearings as well as new seals and gaskets.

Oil pump is off



Main bearings are out. Here are some pics. They weren't terrible, but was definitely time to do them.







That is about it for tonight. I need to pick up some plastigage (thought I had some, but can't find it)... as well as some more gaskets and misc parts. Should hopefully have it back together and installed soon, pending parts availability.

[Crawdad]

I need to pick up some plastigage (thought I had some, but can't find it)... as well as some more gaskets and misc parts. Should hopefully have it back together and installed soon, pending parts availability.

Charles, its amazing if you can find anything between those two garages!! Did you ever find ur phone?!!!!!!!:drinkbud:

I should be taking the old manifold off this coming weekend. I think I finally have all the notes needed to install the new manifold, except the order in which to take the manifold bolts off and on. You have any ideas for a 351 w?

Build is looking great!:xyxthumbs:

[broncosbybart]

Still haven't found the phone. About given up on that one... It will turn up when least expected.

For your intake manifold, you can take the old bolts out in any order. You can put them back in using any order as well, BUT just to where they are snug (or finger tight). Once you begin torquing them, they go in order. Pretty much from the center out, but you can find illustrations in either a Chilton manual or doing google search for torquing your 351w intake. I like to torque intakes in 3 stages. 1/3 of final torque value, 2/3 of final torque value, and then full torque. after you do the third stage (full torque), recheck all the bolts. i find that it takes a few rounds to get it all evened out. the offer still stands if you want to do it all here.

[broncosbybart]

Yet another update. Rod and main bearings are done. When doing rod bearings, put some rubber caps over the rod bolts so that they don't scratch the crank journal when pushing the piston down. Also, do not mix and match rod or main caps. They must go back on the way they came off. These rods and mains were already numbered. Either work one at a time or number them with a paint marker or punch before disassembly. Crank journals looked good and everything was well within tolerance. Pic of one rod cap off and rod bearing being replaced.



Tapped the dip stick hole with a 1/4" NPT tap and plugged it. Going to be running a steel pan with the dipstick in the pan.

[broncosbybart]

I did not do anything to the top end. Next was the distributor. I wanted to install it while the oil pump was out, that way I would not have to fight with the oil pump shaft while installing. First order of business was to find TDC (top dead center) for the #1 cyl. On the balancer there is a big groove machined into it, but that is not a timing mark. Upon cleaning the balancer, I found the timing marks. I used a yellow paint marker to brighten them some for when it will be timed with a timing light while running. The yellow should make it easier to read the timing marks.

Crank set at TDC, which is at 0 degress on the balancer.



Next, I set the distributor in. It isn't hard, but the bigges thing is trying to align the rotor with the #1 terminal on the distributor cap. Since the distributor cap needs to be removed to see the rotor, I marked the outside plastic of the lower distributor base housing where the #1 terminal is. It isn't an exact science, but it does need to be close.



I installed some adapters in the lower intake for the ECT and the temperature gauge (aftermarket mechanical gauge). I removed the stock metal heater core tubes. People are debating that the ECT needs to be there to work correctly, but the sensor is in the way of the distributor, and it is a race rig. My theory is that water flows constantly through the engine anyway, so it should be fine. Might run rich for a little while longer after startup, but no biggie to mel.



Next was the installation of the oil pump shaft, the new high volume pump, and pickup tube. While it was there, it got a new rear main seal and 1 piece oil pan gasket. I did put a dab of silicone on the corner tabs of the oil pan gasket, where it meets up with the semi-circular crank mains.



Next, was the finishing touch- a quick rattle can rebuild...