ECORS Class A race rig build

[broncosbybart]

I had to do all that because the track bar riser bracket was bottoming against the frame really hard. There was only about 1 inch of distance between the top of the polyurethane bumpstop and the top of the track bar riser. When the suspension compressed after a hard bump or jump, the track bar riser would smack the frame with a loud metallic thunk. I didn't like that at all.

Next, I fabbed up a set of plates to modify the lower track bar mount. Instead of the bolt being in single shear (which makes it easier to break), it is now in double shear which I like a lot more.

Now I just have to grind it all smooth and paint it up to make it all pretty once again. I still have to get some new bolts for everything and finish making my new bump stop mount for that side. Hope to have some more progress pics by Tuesday or Wed!!

[744x4]

That looks alot sturdier than the single shear Mount.

[nhopman]

Looks good and sturdy now. Looks like you might wan't to figure out away to make the tie-rod and drag link in a double shear mount to the knuckle. Of course when you do, post pics and detailed istructions. That's exactly how mine is setup and so far it has not been a problem, but I never really liked relying on just the one bolt to hold all of that together.

Nick

[scbronco]

charles, im eager to see your solution for the steering linkage pass side bolt issue. i just bout the 7/8" Hiem steering link kit from ruffstuff, and i was concerned about the two links on one bolt with the single shear at the bottom. you mentioned you may go tie rod under, and that is the one thing i was trying to avoid... let me know if you get an idea about how to keep it TRO. i thought about welding up a double shear mount on the knuckle but concerned it might not hold up (welding to cast) i alos considered a scissor style steering link with tabs welded to the tie rod... not sure, cant wait to see your fix...

[SC74]

Looks like you have been busy! I know what you mean about the small things taking forever and look so easy at day's end.

[broncosbybart]

Thanks for the comments guys! Unfortunately I don't have a good solution for the tie rod over setup. One thing that I am fighting is the track bar mount. I am now using the lower hole in order to gain some suspension travel and keep the track bar out of the oil pan.

This means that the track bar is no longer parallel to the drag link for the steering linkage. Running tie rod under the knuckle will put my drag link back parallel to the track bar, which is probably best at this point.

One idea that I did have for running a double shear bolt for the steering linkage would be to drill and tap the knuckle and make a form of a high steer arm that would be in line with the lower steering hole. Thought about doing that and running the bolt through with the linkage sandwiched between them. Shouldn't be too hard to make, but I decided against it. Was pondering on using 3/8" plate to do that with, along with the plasma cutter. Might ponder it in the future, but I'm going to run tie rod under for now.

There was just too much force over the top of the knuckle the way it was. FYI, it should be pretty easy to weld to the knuckle. Seen plenty of welded knuckles, but never researched if there was a 'right way' to do it.

[blazinchuck]

how much lift you running? the riser was design for 3.5 and up. also, you considering air bumps?

[broncosbybart]

I am running a 3.5" lift with their rock crawler coils. called them yesterday to see if they still made pre-runner coils. Apparently they don't. The rock crawler coils have a spring rate of about 210 lbs/in, IIRC. It doesn't take too much of an impact to blow through all of that.

As far as air bumps go, I'd probably spring for some nice shocks before I'd do bumps. Neither one of which do I forsee, unless we win the $5k handout at the last race

[broncosbybart]

Was working on the Bronco on Tuesday. It is up in the air on the lift and I have been greasing it, checking it over, etc. While looking at the transfer case, I noticed what appeared to be a crack in one flange of the front output yoke. So, I pulled the front drive shaft and checked it out. I poked at the crack with a pick, and the pick went right through the yoke!!! The yoke has almost no material in that area- almost surprised it isn't translucent in the day light...

So, I drained the transfer case and threw another yoke in. While looking at the front drive shaft, it didn't telescope very well. I have another front DS that is now at Universal Service here in Charlotte, getting rebuilt and prepped for the next race.

[broncosbybart]

As I was looking at the rear of the Bronco, I noticed that one of the 4.5" bump stops was ripped! It looks like they slid off of the top of the round axle housing on contact. So, I removed the bump stops and am now going to fabricate a flat plate, almost like a leaf spring perch, for the bumpstops to hit. I am also going to use some 3" bump stops, as the 4.5" ones are pretty long and move around a lot. I don't like them very much for that reason. The added height of the new bump stop plates off the top of the axle housing should work out well with the smaller bump stops.

I made a few templates out of cardboard and transferred the patterns to some 3/16" steel. I will cut these out with the plasma, clean them up, and get it all welded together.

Got some new steering joints and a DOM tie rod on order (it was bent), along with some trick tabs. I am going to make an aluminum topfor over the roll cage. Pondering on window nets, but have to see who makes custom ones, and how much they cost...